A Dogs Golden Years

With appropriate care most dogs live complete and happy lives. Unfortunately, an adored pet never seems to live long enough. Each breed has different life spans. While taking care of your aging dog you need to adapt his environment for his comfort. As dogs get older, they develop aches, joint pain, generalized weakness and an almost definite increase in medical problems.

Adjust his surroundings to minimize discomfort. Protect him from excessive heat and cold. Older dogs are unable to regulate body temperature as a younger dog.

Try to give your dog regular exercise. Make sure your dogs health matches his exercise routine. If your dog exhibits signs of heavy panting or opposes exercise you need to change his routine.

Adapt his diet and feeding schedule to his needs. As dogs age they are less active and need fewer calories. Prescription diets are available. Discuss special diets with your veterinarian.

Older dogs can experience hearing loss and declining eyesight. Accommodate for his safety.

Senior dogs require special dental care. They are more likely to develop gum problems and disease. Complete dental cleaning should be performed by your vet every six months which does require anesthesia. Make sure complete bloodwork is performed.

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Older dogs need extra bathing and grooming. Dry skin can be a normal part of aging or it can be a sign of an underlying medical condition. They also require more frequent nail trimming.

Take into consideration his age in human years. If he is 13 in dog years, he may suffer the same aging ailments as a 75 year old human.

Continue with bi-annual vet exams. Senior dogs need extra care with their aging problems.

Give his life quality! Keep those memories alive!

Buying A New Puppy? How To Avoid The Pitfalls

Many books and articles have been written regarding the art of choosing a puppy (i.e. performing puppy tests, looking for parental OFA certifications, and so on…), but few, if any, discuss the contractual end of purchasing a puppy. I can tell you through personal experience that purchasing a quality show puppy from a famous breeder can be quite a stressful experience because no breeder would give up the pick of the litter to a competitor (for obvious reasons) or to a novice without co-ownership of the puppy. Co-ownership of a puppy entitles the breeder to many rights to the detriment of the buyer. To begin with, the breeder might also be an experienced handler and might contractually require the purchaser to use the breeder as the puppies’ trainer and handler. Agreeing to this could be a monumental mistake because the purchaser might be required to pay (even though they might be co-owners) for the breeders time to train and handle the puppy. Agreeing to this can COST you THOUSANDS of dollars.

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In the contract, the breeder might require your bitch/dog to whelp/stud puppies. And, of course, they would contractually want the picks of the litter (they may choose either male or a female puppies as they please). Furthermore, you as the purchaser, might be required to pay the costs of breeding and whelping the puppies (i.e. food, vet-bills, housing, AKC registrations, stud fees, breeder’s time) even though you may not be allowed to get the picks of the litter. What’s more, you may not be able to see nor be with your dog for the duration of gestation and delivery. Some breeders have been known to switch animals when they are sent away for whelping or stud service. Therefore, I would recommend that you microchip you puppy and that you get an AKC DNA ID as soon as possible after you purchase your puppy. This way, you will get back your beloved animal without concern as to the nature of its identity.

When you purchase your puppy, most reputable breeders will guarantee that your puppy will be free of various ailments for the duration of two years. What they may fail to mention, however, is that if your puppy becomes incurably ill, the replacement puppy may be one of their own choosing and not yours; which translates to the fact that you may end up with a new puppy that has a lousy temperament.

So, remember. The devil is in the fine print. Read your contract carefully, otherwise you may become the victim of your own ignorance.

A Dogs Communication – Could Your Dog be Trying to Tell You Something?

Is barking a form of language among dogs with precise significance, or just playful noise? Dogs exchange information among themselves less by voice than by a wide range of facial expressions, body postures and gestures, as well as by various scents. Dogs, who bark at night, are probably working off excess energy or announcing their presence, and this is undoubtedly the only message conveyed to other dogs within ear shot.

When a dog goes to his owner and deliberately barks, it is simply meant to attract attention. You must try to guess his general behavior, rather than from the circumstances and his general behavior, rather than from the particular form or pitch of bark he makes. The howling or baying of hunting dogs is an instinctive hunting cry informing the pack that the dog is on a trail. Barking at strange noises is a warning as well as a threat display.

A lonely dog who bowls may be sending out a gathering cry to other dogs nearby. Wild dogs on the other hand, never back, they only howl. Could the barking of domesticated dogs be a form of communication more closely resembling speech? A pet dog that shares a close relationship with his owner and has been taught to understand many words obviously makes an effort, sometimes quite successfully, to give meaning to his own utterances.

A dog who wishes to assert his importance and boldness instinctively employs all of the effects that make him look bigger and more frightening, raising his back ton increase his height and holding his head high in defiance. A dog who wants to show submission does just the opposite, making himself look small by crouching down with his tail between his legs and his ears laid back flat.

A dog who wishes to assert his dominance will take a perpendicular position with his head over the other dog’s shoulders, while nudging or pushing, with his neck arched, head and tail raised and tense. The conventional play invitation is a posture with the forehead crouched, the hind quarters high, a wagging tail, bright eye and a little yap. A rigid stance with a steady gaze and a high, trembling tail is hostile. A high, steady tail signifies self confidence, and held low indicates inferiority, fatigue, ill health, or a bad mood.

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Pawing at the neck is an expression of affection, nose-nudging is another invitation to play. Paw-giving is a conventional canine gesture with two possible meanings. When he gives his paw to his owner while avoiding eye contact he’s saying “Please forgive me” or when he wants attention, he is saying “I’m here, don’t forget me.” When he offers his paw to another dog, it’s a sign of submission.

An owner, who takes the trouble to observe his dog and pay him the courtesy of listening to him, can establish a simple two-way communications system with his pet. Canine messages are generally very elementary, as he asks much less of us than we do of him. “I’m hungry,” “I’m thirsty”, “I need to go out”, or “Come with me I think something is wrong” are among the messages he manages to convey very well considering his limited means. His most eloquent utterance is the emotional gurgle of barks that means to say “I’ve missed you!”

Buy from a Reputable Breeder

Breeders specialize in their chosen breed. They know the breed standard, temperament, and characteristics. They strive to breed only animals that epitomize these qualities. This benefits the buyer by allowing the buyer a type of quality control. You will know better what you are getting – fewer surprises, fewer disappointments.

1. They make it a point to be aware of all known inherited defects affecting their breed. Reputable breeders then screen their breeding animals to be sure they are free of such defects. This may not totally eliminate an inherited defect from showing up, but it will greatly decrease the chances of them occurring.

2. A breeder is a valuable source of information should any problems arise after your pet is in your home. They can give advice on almost all aspects of caring for and training dogs. In the event that you find it impossible to keep your pet, many breeders will help you relocate your pet.

3. Most breeders provide you with written instructions on how to feed, care for and train your pet. You also have the comfort of knowing you have a concerned individual who is only a phone call away.

4. Breeders take the time to properly socialize their puppies. They give the special handling needed during the critical developmental stages in the puppies’ lives. This socialization helps the puppies adapt and adjust to life with humans as well as laying a foundation for learning. A carefully bred, well-socialized puppy makes a happy, eager to please dog that is a pleasure to live with.

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5. Because the breeder has been laying the foundation for learning through socialization, and because your puppy has not been kept in a small cage for a long period, buying your pet from a breeder may make it easier to housebreak your pet. Constant confinement in a cage, such as in a pet store, leads to a loss of the puppies’ naturally clean nature. This complicates housebreaking because they are no longer bothered by living with their own waste. By living in a home situation with the breeder, they maintain their naturally clean nature making it easier to housebreak them.

6. If you wish to show your pet, your pet’s breeder will help you get started in whatever area you wish to pursue- be it conformation, obedience, agility, carting, herding or tracking. A reputable breeder wants to better his beloved breed by constantly striving to produce animals of high quality. This endeavor carries a high price, not only in time and money but more importantly in emotion. Along with the joy of breeding litters comes much heartache. The satisfaction of bringing joy to the lives of others through the ownership of quality, loving companions is well worth the effort. On the other hand, buying a puppy also carries a price in terms of money and emotions. It is worth spending the time and effort on your part to find a reputable breeder for the purchase of your special companion so you can both enjoy a long, wonderful relationship together.

A Dog in One Pack- Jack Russell Terrier

We basically want to find companions who would give us most of the benefits we think we need. Well, if you are looking for a dog that is somewhat a one-in-package pal, you might find Jack Russell Terriers interesting enough.

This dog has a history that is somehow loomed to give rise to the specie.

It was said that the breeder of this dog, a young Theologian student of Oxford University named John Russell once met a milkman with a white terrier that has spots on his eyes and ears. This dog became his interest which later proved to be his foundation for breeding a new dog breed that many has learned to love as pets. The dog he first saw was named “Trump” from which another 60 types of terriers were later bred from.

With a terrier’s basic nature to go on and over the ground (terrier by the way came from the Latin term “terra” which means earth), Jack Russell terriers also have the disposition to hunt and scour for hunting. Thus, they should be given enough grooming so as to set off the dirt they gather from digging soil to either bury a treasure or to recover a hidden treasure kept long ago.

An excellent ratter, Jack Russell Terriers proves to be good “housekeepers” since they keep most rats away from home. Any unlucky rat that happens to be inside the quarters of this terrier is sure to meet its instant doom. Thus, owners find themselves with both a dog and cat in one pal.

One basic character of this dog is its disposition towards strangers. They can easily figure out who must be kept away from their homes and who can be accepted inside the house. This very attitude also makes them good watchdogs. They were designed specifically to be aggressive on preys. And while they can be very vocal, many of them only barks when they find good reason to.

They do not appear vicious though. But once they smell threat, they can show off aggressiveness that could serve as warning towards the strangers. However, once the stranger is let into the house by the owner, a Jack Russell can already tolerate his or her presence.

This terrier is also a family dog and desires for human companionship. And their love for children is significantly interesting. However, once they are abused or had been shown improper treatments, may it be intentional or accidental, they can react through aggressive behaviors. Their aggressiveness is further manifested with their lack of fear towards larger dogs which can unfortunately lead to injuries, some can even be fatal.

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They are also marked for their intelligence and good spirit. These characteristics can be highly observable through their curiosity in things. Thus, they require supplementation on formal training unless you can tolerate difficult behaviors. The good thing though with Jack Russell is that it can acknowledge training and do well in most of them. In fact, they are known to champion various ring shows and other similar competitions.

The Hollywood has recognized the disposition of these dogs too. Coupled with feisty and good physical characteristics, this pal has already made names in the screens. If Wishbone, Milo (from The Mask) and Eddie (from the Frasier) ring the bell on you then there is no doubt that you can recognize this dog.

Jack Russell fair well with grooming. A dog of relatively small size, this breed will not tax you with grooming needs.

Burial Options: Deciding The Right Burial Option For Your Dog

As we spend a decade or more with our dogs, they literally become a part of our lives, a member of our family, and the thought of them not being with us anymore can be too much to handle.

Unfortunately, this is something that will happen. It is inevitable. And while planning for our pet’s final resting place is something that we would prefer not to do, it is wise to decide early on which option is the best.

Looking at your choices is difficult and can affect your better judgment when you are in the process of grieving for the loss of your pet. Therefore, deciding on which memorial option is the best for your beloved dog should taken care of long before he or she passes.

Here is a list of some of the traditional ways we lay our dogs to their final resting place:

Pet Cemetery

These are burial grounds that are usually located in a quiet, park-like area. A few of them have a special place where the remains of the owners can be buried alongside their pets. One well known pet cemetery that has been around for about 40 years is located on church grounds in New Jersey.

There are two questions that you should ask before deciding on a pet cemetery:

1. Is the owner of the property committed to keeping the land as a pet cemetery in the future? To find out, contact the county recorder’s clerk and verify that the property is indeed dedicated as a pet cemetery. Otherwise, the company can legally exhume your dog and sell the land.

2. Does the cemetery charge a maintenance fee? This is to ensure proper up keeping of the burial grounds.

Cremation

Three types of pet cremations are available:

1. Individual cremation: Only one dog is cremated and the ashes can be returned to the family.

2. Private cremation: Several pets are cremated but kept in separate chambers so that the ashes can be returned to the right family.

3. Common cremation: Includes several pets and the ashes are not returned.

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A respectable crematory should offer you a tour of their facility and allow you to be there during your dog’s cremation. Ashes that are returned to the owners can be buried, spread in a special location, or placed in an urn.

Body disposal: Your vet will dispose of your dog’s body for a minimum charge. The bodies are either incinerated or sent to a landfill. If your dog is to be cremated, ask for the name and phone number of the crematorium and call to verify that the facility works with your veterinarian.

Backyard Burial: Check your local county’s regulations concerning backyard burials for your pets. Consider this question: If you think you are going to be moving in a few years, will it bother you to leave behind your dog’s remains?

A Dog Can Be Your Best Friend When It Comes To Home Security

Burglar alarms are not the be-all and end-all of home security. There are plenty of other things you can install in your home that will help to stop a burglar from gaining entry – and many of them are very simple and inexpensive.

The key is to secure the possible points of entry. This means that doors should be made of strong, solid material (definitely not plastic or glass), be properly secured to their hinges and have tamper-resistant locks. Ideally, you should have an extra deadbolt that you put on at night, made from very strong metal.

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Windows should be made from toughened glass, preferably double-glazed, so that they are almost impossible to break. Although window locks are relatively uncommon, they help greatly with security, and you should consider installing them. If your house has windows in a position where they can be easily and discreetly accessed from the street, such as basement windows, you should consider putting metal bars on them.

It is also important for your garden to be secure, as far more burglars enter through the back of your house than the front. This means that your fences should be high and have some kind of anti-climbing measures (spikes or anti-climb paint can work well). If you don’t like fences, get big hedges instead.

Another thing to consider is getting a dog – surprisingly effective against burglars, who don’t generally want to mess with dogs if they can avoid it. For this strategy to be more effective, put up a ‘beware of the dog’ sign. Smaller dogs are not so great for this because they are not generally scary – something like a big German Shepherd works best, not only because of their size, but because of their strong guard instincts that cause them to be hostile to strangers.

Guide To Bullmastiff Breed

History and origin: The Bullmastiff is believed to have been evolved between 200 or 300 years ago by crossing the Mastiff with the Bulldog. He was used as a guard dog against poachers (who were hunting on large estates) without actually harming them. The Bullmastiff was bred to be courageous, quick, strong, and willing to challenge humans.
Description: The Bullmastiff stands 24 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 100 and 135 pounds. He has a powerful, heavily muscled and boned body and a short, low-maintenance shedding coat that needs regular brushing. Ears may be cropped or uncropped. The color may be fawn, reddish brown, or brindle; a small white patch on the chest is acceptable.

About the breed: The Bullmastiff is a trustworthy, affectionate, lazy, powerful breed with a natural instinct of guarding his home and family. These dogs are usually very suspicious of strangers and other dogs and are one of the most territorial of breeds. Though normally gentle with children in their own family, Bullmastiffs can be unpredictable with friends, relatives, and co-workers. Keep in mind that this breed was designed to challenge human beings and will do so without hesitation if a threat is perceived. When a Bullmastiff becomes aggressive, it is explosive and unstoppable. This breed is capable of killing another dog in seconds, so do not consider letting him off leash.

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The only way to minimize this instinctive behavior is to socialize and train the dog from day one, allowing the Bullmastiff puppy to interact with people and dogs in a controlled, positive environment. Males should be neutered by the eighth month. Females tend to be less aggressive and are quite more timid than males. The Bullmastiff is normally content to lie around the house. Though less energetic than the Boxer, he does tend to be slightly more active than the Mastiff. Training should begin early and should be firm but not overbearing, as this breed matures slowly and can become worried if pushed too hard. Patience and consistency are required, as well as positive, confident attitude. Spoiling will create a pushy dog that lacks confidence, a combination that could be dangerous. Mature children are permissible provided absolutely no roughhousing is permitted. This breed eats large quantities of food. He usually lives ten to twelve years, and is susceptible to bloat, hip dysplasia, eyelid abnormalities, gastrointestinal disorders, and respiratory problems. He snores and drools and is often flatulent.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is at least 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a branded meaty product with biscuit added in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a dry, complete food.

Ideal home: A large house in the country with a fenced yard or kennel is preferred, though this breed is easygoing in the home. The owner of a Bullmastiff must be a strong, easygoing, confident leader who is fully aware of the power of this breed and who does not project worry or concern. Time must be available to train, socialize, and handle this breed. Though very affectionate with his family, the Bullmastiff may be unpredictable and aggressive with your children’s friends. Spoilers and weak, nervous, or overbearing people should avoid this breed, as should the elderly and the disabled. The Bullmastiff needs regular exercise; a child or lightweight person may have a hard time controlling the lead.

A Comparison of Five Pet Health Insurance Plans

It doesn’t matter if you have already decided to purchase health insurance for the family pet or if you are simply. When you are comparing the quote of one health insurance quote to another remember that the base doller amount is not the only number you have to consider. In addition to the monthly payment make sure you also check out exactly what type of veterinary care and treatments are covered (some basic insurance plans do not include cancer treatment), what kind of deductible you, the pet owner, will be expected to pay, is there a yearly cap on medical expenses, and what type of discounts are available.

At the moment there are only a handful of companies that offer pet health insurance. Five of the most popular companies are Pets Best Pet Insurance, Veterinary Pet Insurance, ShelterCare, Pets Health and PetCare.
An insurance plan through Pets Best Pet Insurance will cost approximately $32.00 a month ($384.00 annually). Pets Best will cover pet sterilization provided the pet owner purchases an additional wellness plan. Pets Best does not cover pre-existing medical conditions a pet has so its best to insure them early in life before problems develop. Pets Best has a life time limit of $99,750 dollars per pet. Pets Best health insurance plans come with a $75.00 deductible. Multiple pet discounts are available. Pet’s Best pet health insurance does cover cancer.

Veterinary Pet Insurance is a company that offers pet owner a $14,000 a year cap on an insurance plan that only costs approximately $20.00 dollars a month. Veterinary Pet Insurance offers plans with a $50.00 deductible (after the deductible they pay ninety percent of the bill) on plans that include pet sterilization and cancer coverage. Veterinary Pet Insurance does not accept pre-existing conditions and does not offer multi-pet discounts.

ShelterCare is a pet insurance that cost pet’s owners approximately $29.95. For that $29.95 there is absolutely no deductible and cancer treatments are covered. ShelterCare will not pay for pet sterilization nor will they cover any pre-existing conditions. ShelterCare does not have a benefit cap. ShelterCare offers premium discounts for multi-pet plans, medical service, and micro-chips.

A pet health insurance policy through PetsHealth insurance company will cost the pet owner approximately $37.17 dollars per month. PetsHealth covers 80% of the pets vet bill after the $100.00 doller deductible is paid. PetsHealth has a $13,000 doller cap on each per year. PetHealth does insure pre-existing conditions after ninety days. Multi-pet discounts are available through PetHealth. PetsHealth does offer pet health insurance plans that cover cancer on a case by case basis.

PetCare is a pet health insurance company that estimates the average cost for a policy for a pet is $29.95 a month. This plan includes a fifty doller deductible. While PetCare is happy to cover the cost your pet’s cancer treatments they will not pay for any pre-existing conditions nor will they pay for pet sterilization. PetCare offers discounts for multi-pet plans and medical service.

None of the estimated monthly prices for these insurance companies include any extra insurances riders.
Any one or all of these companies can change their policies between now and the time you purchase a pet health insurance plan.

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Remember to read the fine print before you sign up for a pet health insurance plan.
All five of these pet health insurance companies have their own websites where you can go to get up to date pet health insurance quotes.

There are other pet health insurance companies with different prices, discounts, stipulations, and benefit caps if you are not content with the previous five comparisons.

Unfortunate Impressions on Bull Dog Terriers

People might be wondering why there is such a name as “bull dog”.

Originally, Great Britain and later, America were obsessed with bloody fights between bulls and dogs. The main function of the canine is to hang on to the bull’s neck and worry the poor animal until it dies. Obviously, these dogs had developed great strength in their jaws.

Among the popular choices of dogs for this sport were the pit bulls. Back then, the selection of pit bulls was so varied that many showed a variety of characteristics that made the sport highly interesting. Later in the life of the sport though, the center of attraction switched towards the fight between pit bulls and not against the bulls themselves.

From these canines rooted most of the bull dog terriers that we know of today.

One of the significant bull dog terriers we have is the American Staffordshire Terrier who is of great interest since it possesses intriguing seemingly opposing characters.

They project strength and physically power but they are not vicious. In fact, this dog is very much associated with its relationship to its family, especially among children. The physical features it has are now only due to their basic nature and orientation during their bloody fights as fighting machines. But this does not negate the fact that they can sometimes show aggressiveness which may somehow work against them. Nevertheless, this can be set off with their loving nature and devotion to human family. Thus, it has a stable temperament which make them good pets and excellent watchdogs.

AmStaff terrier, as it is called by its shorter name suffers in reputation though since it is commonly associated with pit bulls. These dogs are known for their love for challnge and are therefore employed in illegal dog fighting.

Most of the problems root from irresponsible training. Sadly, there are too few AmStaff that are properly trained. And what’s even depressing is that there are innumerable pit bulls that are continually ill-treated by sadistic owners.

We are often confused of what true pit bulls are. In fact, many contend that these dogs must not be called by that name since it elicits unwanted images of gory dog fights. While this breed is not yet officially recognized by the American Dog Breeders Association or the United Kennel Club, the legitimate name remains to be American Pit Bull Terrier.

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While it is true that American Pit Bull Terrier is violent in nature, this doesn’t imply that they are made purely for brutal stuffs. As we have earlier said, these dogs are only products of maltreatment and exploitive training (and inhumane) for self serving purposes. Otherwise, American Pit Bull Terriers can be very people loving.

These are also known for their being hardworking on which they excel from. They are also fond of excessive physical activities that would exhaust their power reserves. Thus, this breed is great for those who need company during athletic training. If you are the couch potato personality, please find another breed of dog that would suit your lifestyle.

To clear things off, American Pit Bull Terrier are not officially recognized not because of its ill reputation but mainly due to beliefs that it is not a purebred. One major standard for a dog to be distinguished as member of Kennel Clubs is that it should be purebred. Until more comprehensive findings on its origin are found, this dog will remain unfortunately tagged as “nasty”.

A Very Interesting Way How Dogs Learn To Seek Attention

Did you know that your dog is capable of actually faking an injury in order to get extra attention? Think of children in that aspect. Regardless if you have kids or not, we all have seen an example of when a child will cry extra loud or scream about something that is “wrong” in order to – yep, you guessed it – get attention. But how can your dog do the same?

It is to be noted that this is a learned response that a dog must have picked up. For example, I recall a miniature poodle that required knee repair on the right rear knee. The surgery went well, and the dog recovered from anesthesia and was sent home the following day. At the one-week recheck the dog was still holding up the right rear leg, but this is not uncommon after only one week. Upon manipulation the knee felt strong, and a recheck appointment was scheduled for two weeks later. At the three-week post examination the dog was still holding the leg in the air and getting around on three legs. Again upon palpation the knee felt strong. X rays were taken to ensure that the surgical correction had not broken down. The radiograph confirmed that the knee was stable, but still the dog limped around on only three legs.

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The doctor then questioned the owners about allowing her too much activity or letting her run on slippery floors, but the owners were conscientious about such things and had been extremely careful. Further discussion revealed the problematic behavior of her owners. It seems they had been lifting and holding their poodle a lot to “help” her out. They were very accommodating, and when she limped into a room they basically waited on her as if she were a princess. The doctor counseled the owners to stop paying so much attention to this limping and begin to treat her normally. The owners complied but still she held her right leg up in the air.

Finally the doctor decided to bandage up her left rear leg to evaluate if she could actually bear weight on it. The dog was able to and showed no sign of pain or apprehension. The good leg remained bandaged for one week, and upon removing the bandage the dog was four-legged again. Basically, the owners trained this dog to limp and had no idea that she could do so in an attempt to gain attention. It was a fascinating lesson. The moral to the story is: Be careful what you reinforce – you may get it.

The Bull(y) and Strong Dog: Staffordshire Terrier

The Staffordshire bulls are known for their great strength because of their sizes. Their variety is muscular and stocky but is also known for their agility. Surprisingly, this breed is one of the two breeds recognized by the UK Kennel Club as very suitable for children. Furthermore, their types ranked 5th when it comes to dog popularity in the UK, where the breed originated. Interestingly, Staffies are the only breed of dog that are “totally reliable” when it comes to standard of breed.

The following are some of the basic facts breeders would really love to know about Staffies:

Category: Terrier

Living Environment: either indoors or outdoors

Coat: smooth (or silky like most terriers), dense, and short

Colors: black, brindle, red, blue, fawn; or any of these colors mixed with white

Height: between 14 and 16 inches

Weight: between 24 and 38 pounds

Colors: brindle, blue, black, red, fawn, white; or any of these with white

Temperament: aggressive towards other animals but very friendly with children

Health Issues: heat stroke, cataracts, and breathing problems

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Care and Exercise Tips:

• Bathe when necessary.
• Brush their coat only occasionally using a brush with firm bristles.
• Rub down their coat with a chamois or towel to remove hairs that are loose.
• Their physique requires a regular exercise routine which includes a daily play time while on a leash.
• They should be on leash while walking in public places.

Origin/History:

The Staffordshire bull terriers, also known as the Staffies, are known to have existed around the 17th century. Since dog fighting gained a surge of popularity over bull baiting, it became a must to develop a breed of dog that is agile, strong, and has a more punishing head than the Bulldog.

In this light, fighting Bulldogs of that time were crossed with some terrier blood. The hybrid was known as the Pit Dog or the Bull and Terrier. The new cross breed became well known for their tenacity and courage, and despite their reputation of being furious with other animals they were excellent companions especially with children.

The Staffie pit dog became a favorite of steelworkers and miners alike. The breed also provided chain makers of the “Black Country” with extra income when worked against ratters or badgers.

The enforcement of the Humane Act in 1835 completely prohibited sports like dog fighting and bull baiting. However, a group of men in the Staffordshire chose to maintain their breed of dogs by introducing them to the show business.

Through the years, the breeders themselves changed the name of the dog into Staffordshire bull terrier to differentiate its physique from the English bull terrier. However, the name of the dog was officially registered only in 1935 by the American Kennel Club.

In 1938, a couple of Staffies gained popularity as Champions at the Birmingham National. The popularity of Ch. Lady Eve and were Ch. Gentleman Jim reached many established countries including France, Australia, Germany, Spain, Holland and even the USA. Since then, Staffies became successful as show dogs and were very popular as compared to other terriers.

The Stafford bull terrier, yes, has become a popular pet while still retaining reputations gained through generations of fighting dogs bred for tenacity, courage, agility, and most importantly, its reliability and great affinity with people especially with children.

And today you can say that the bull is not so bully after all! In fact, the bull is totally reliable as children’s pets.

A Question On Dog Instinct

To what extent are dogs guided by instinct? Can one train dogs to forget their natural instincts and just obey without question?

The relevant meaning of instinct given in a dictionary is as follows: “The natural impulse apparently independent of reason or experience by which animals are guided.” This sounds very sensible. Take a puppy: every time he is asked to do something he doesn’t want to do, or if he fears the approach of a bigger or fiercer dog than himself, he quickly lies on the floor with his legs in the air and tummy exposed to the enemy. This attitude has come down through generations of domesticated dogs; yet it is the remains of an instinct of the wild. For in the wild no young puppy would have been attacked in this position; it is against the laws of nature. This habit is a great hindrance in training, for when a dog does it and you try to put his lead on, he just waves his legs in the air and bites, especially if you try to get hold of his collar. Therefore we must train these dogs to understand that this position will not save them from being made to do what we wish them to do.

Dogs are guided a lot by instinct, but a lot more by smell, and smell can vary considerably with individual persons, according to their state of mind. For example, why is it that dogs take instantly to some people and won’t go near others, especially when those they don’t wish to know want to be friends with them? I think each human being has a friendly or unfriendly smell, which dogs can always detect. Fear, I believe, sends out an unpleasant smell, for dogs sense nervous people yards away.

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Why do dogs go and sniff at the base of another dog’s tail? It is the old instinct to find out whether that dog belongs to his pack or another by the scent from the anal glands. Why do dogs roll in something dirty, in spite of knowing quite well they will get beaten or bathed for their sin? Because in the old times of wild dogs they wanted to show their enemies they were about, by leaving their own scent on something not carrying it. That is also why they lift their legs where any other dog has lifted his leg; a dog’s particular scent indicates to his pack where he has gone.

Certainly one cannot give in to instinct when training a dog to be obedient. A dog must do as he is told without question, providing the thing he is asked to do is fair and reasonable. For example, I do not think jumping through fire is fair or reasonable, and I hate to see animals made to do it as a trick. Animals have an instinctive fear of fire from the old days of forest fires, and to train them to do this trick must involve a certain amount of cruelty.

Wherever possible we use the dog’s natural instincts if they can be guided into the right channels. Take tracking, for example. A dog’s natural instinct is to find food by using his nose, and most trainers agree that food at the end of the trail is a great incentive when teaching a dog to track. That is the ancient instinct to stay free.

Guide To Bulldog Breed

History and origin: Bulldogs were first used in England during the Middle Ages as baiters and fighters of bulls. They were originally bred to have courage and tenacity similar to the Mastiff. These early dogs were incredibly aggressive. It was not until the 19th century that the present personable temperament was achieved.

Description: The Bulldog stands 13 to 15 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. He has a dense, powerful body, an extremely blunt muzzle, a pronounced under-bite, and a short, smooth shedding coat that requires regular brushing with a fairly stiff brush. The color may be brindle, white, fawn, red, or patched.

About the breed: The Bulldog is a courageous, intelligent, sweet, stubborn, incredibly strong dog that is filled with athletic enthusiasm. Despite his ferocious appearance, this breed has a docile temperament. He is extremely personable and loving, but because of his strength and enthusiasm, he is not always the best choice for the elderly or the disabled. Though normally not aggressive, he may resist training because he has a stubborn streak left over from his bull-fighting days.

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The Bulldog needs training from early on, particularly in learning not to pull on the leash, not to jump up on people, and in general to contain his exuberance. He is a fast-learner and loves taking part in games. He loves children and gets along well with strangers; just make sure he does not get overenthusiastic and knock your friends or your children with his bowling-ball body. Training should start form puppy hood and should be firm and persistent. You must gain adequate control of this eager, powerful, stubborn breed early in life. The Bulldog is susceptible to respiratory problems. He will snort and sneeze, spewing out undesirable secretions, usually while licking your face. The Bulldog also snores. In addition, the deep wrinkles on his face and forehead tend to get infected if not cleaned and powdered with cornstarch once a day. Some Bulldogs may need eyelid surgery if a condition known as entropion sets in, causing the eyelids to turn in so that the eyelashes rub against the cornea.

This breed is also sensitive to extremes in temperature and can easily become overheated. Finally, because of his heavy frame, the Bulldog can develop structural problems and arthritis later in life. Do not take this dog jogging or let him get overweight.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 can (13.3oz) of high quality meaty product with biscuit added. 1 teaspoon of cod liver oil daily is recommended in winter.

Ideal home: An apartment is fine provided this breed is exercised regularly. The owner of a Bulldog should be an active, capable leader who desires a sweet, personable, vigorous dog that is good with family and friends. Children are fine as long as no roughhousing is allowed. The elderly and the disabled may have difficulty dealing with this breed’s high level of enthusiasm; the Bulldog can be a very physical animal and, in his eagerness to play, may knock his owner down and cause an injury. Time to train, exercise, and socialize this breed is important.

A Question About Smelly, Oily Dog Skin

“My dog has a very bad, oily smell to her skin. What is the cause and is there any way to get rid of it?”

Your dog may have a seborrheic skin condition. Chronic low-level inflammation of the skin causes increased production of fatty acids. Bacteria grow more easily in this bed of extra fatty acids, and they create that “dog smell” that you are complaining about.

You can treat mild cases using a medicated antiseborrheic shampoo once a week. Moderate to severe cases will probably need to be seen by your veterinarian, who can prescribe steroids and other medications that will help to decrease the inflammation in the skin. When using medicated shampoos, remember to let them sit in contact with the skin for ten minutes.

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There are many types of medicated shampoos on the market. It is recommended that you buy one from your veterinary hospital. However, if your doctor prescribes one from the pet store, that is also alright. Just be sure you get the directions for its use from the doctor. Don’t rely on the pet store clerk to give advice on this condition.

Bull Terriers—Today And Yesterday

Today, bull terriers are known for their playful temperament and protective tendencies. Yet, the history behind the creation and purpose of these dogs does not indicate that these dogs would even bee seen as a common household pet. A breed created purposefully for the cruel intentions of human beings, the bull terrier is known today for being energetic and a great companion. It is interesting to compare yesterday’s history of bull terriers to the realty of today.

A Twisted History

The bull terrier resulted from a cross between bulldogs and different types of terriers. The purpose of such a cross was to breed dogs for dog fighting. In 1835, traditional dog fighting was outlawed in England. Thus, to keep the sport under wraps, a smaller breed was needed so as to be more discreet. Thus, the bulldogs used in traditional dogfights were mixed with terriers to create a much lighter and agile dog.

Historically, the bull terrier is known for being even more aggressive and deadly than the bulldog alone. It became known as the “canine gladiator” that would fight to its death. It wasn’t until James Hinks bred the bull terrier with the White Terrier that the breed became standardized. Hinks did this to eliminate a few unattractive features in the dog and to achieve an all white dog. Today, this particular breed is known as the white bull terrier.

Ted Lyon was the first to introduce color into the breed in the early 20th century. He did so because genetic problems were occurring with the pure white ones, such as albinism. Now, any bull terrier that is not pure white is known as a colored bull terrier.

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A Different Sort Of Dog

Over the years, many different dogs have been crossed with the bull terrier to achieve the look that we associated with the dogs today. It is thought that at some point throughout history, the Dalmatian, Spanish Pointer, Greyhound, Foxhound, Borzoi, and Collie were crossed to achieve the modern appearance.

Not only is the modern look of the bull terrier different than it once was, but the temperament of the dog is much more easy-going and playful. They are known for their athleticism and their clowning antics. Today, there is no trace of the fighting machine that these dogs once were.

A Positive Change

Bull terriers are just one example of something that can change drastically over a period of time. Given several centuries, it is easy to see how something can go from one exchange to the other.

A Question About Jaundice

“My brother tells me he has had his puppy inoculated against jaundice. Can you tell me a little about this disease?”

Jaundice can be present in the puppy from several causes. There may be something blocking the bile duct, preventing the bile’s escaping from the liver into the small intestine in the usual way; it has to be absorbed, therefore, by the lymphatics, and some of its constituents are then deposited in the body, causing the well-known yellow appearance of the mucous membranes, etc.

The most likely cause of jaundice in a puppy is the virus of contagious hepatitis. The temperature rises to an alarming degree and the puppy becomes very ill. Unless veterinary aid is sought quickly, the puppy may die. The urine often becomes green, and the stool clay-colored and offensive. Vomiting is often present, as well as convulsions or fits.

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The treatment of jaundice must, of course, depend on the cause and symptoms present. If the cause is obstruction, an enema is sometimes given to relieve the constipation. An operation may be necessary, but if it is contagious hepatitis, antibiotics will be used. In all cases of jaundice, expert advice must be taken without delay.

Taking Care Of Your Bull Terrier

Dog fighting and bull baiting were considered to be a leading form of entertainment throughout Europe in the past. Owners of these warrior dogs were in a constant state of breeding different strains in order to produce increasingly better and stronger fighting dogs.

Sometime during the early 1800s, there was a cross between the old English Terrier and the Bulldog. The result was a dog which was known as the “Bull and Terrier”. Soon enough, the Spanish Pointer was added to the mix in order to give more size to the animal.

The final result was a strong, agile, and tenacious dog that fought its way through the pits with total domination. These Bull and Terrier dogs became increasingly popular at fighting exhibitions but were never adored like other breeds because of their association with “lower society”.

Eventually, all dogfighting was abolished and enthusiasts of the Bull and Terrier started to compete them with other dogs for show and appearance. Sometime during the decade of the 1860s, a man named James Hinks crossed the Bull and Terrier with Dalmations. This created a strain of all white dogs which became known as the Bull Terrier.

This strain of all white Bull Terriers had much success in the ring and quickly attracted the attention of more and more people. They eventually somewhat of a fashionable canine companion for men who wanted to have a masculine, rugged, and good-looking dog by their side.

Through additional breeding, the Bull Terrier’s distinctive head shape started to emerge. Sometime during the early 1900s, the all white strain had other colors incorporated into it by being crossed with Staffordshire Bull Terriers. At first this practice was rejected by most Bull Terrier fans but finally gained its own status as its distinctive breed by the AKC in 1936.

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Personality

Three words can easily sum up the personality and temperament of the Bull Terrier: assertive, comical, and exuberant. These dogs have extremely high energy levels and are considered to be a bit on the mischievous side, like that of a cat.

A bit stubborn, the Bull Terrier sometimes prefers to see things his own way which can lead to problems with training. However, with enough time and the right attitude, these dogs can be trained to be excellent watched dogs with the fighting ability to protect its family should a physical confrontation be warranted. But never forget, regardless of its tough-guy image, Bull Terriers are sweet natured and devoted to its family.

Taking Care Of Your Bull Terrier

Bull Terrier dogs must be entertained in order for them to remain happy. Physical and mental stimulation is required every day through vigorous walks on the leash and fun games to play. This dog has moderate tolerance to cold and heat which makes it suitable for staying outdoors during the daytime hours, but should be kept inside at night with the family. Grooming is minimal due to its short coat. A weekly brushing to remove dead hair is all that is needed.

Health Information

The average lifespan of a healthy Bull Terrier is between 12 and 15 years. There are a few major health concerns that need to be looked after, including kidney problems and deafness. Minor health issues include allergies, compulsive behavior, and heart problems. Occasionally seen is patellar luxation, but this is extremely rare with the Bull Terrier.

A Question About Hip Replacement Surgery For The Family Dog

“Our veterinarian wants to refer us to a specialist for a total hip replacement because our dog’s hip dysplasia is so bad. It will cost about $2,000 per hip. Do you think we should do that?”

The total hip replacement is a major surgery. It requires very special knowledge, special equipment, support staff and the prosthesis (artificial joint) itself. The old hip is literally taken out and replaced with a plastic socket and a metal ball. The dog is totally free from the pain of hip arthritis after surgery, because the arthritic joint is gone.

There is some pain after the surgery due to the incisions through the muscles and movement of muscle tissue in order to get access to the joint. After an initial healing period, these dogs do quite well. By the way, both hips will not be done at the same time. There will probably need to be at least two months between procedures.

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The best recommendation is for you to have a family meeting and discuss the expense and the aftercare. Then talk to the specialist and ask all your questions. You will be impressed with the professionalism of such a specialist and with the speed in which your dog recovers.

Brush Up On Your Dog’s Dental Health

Many pet owners may be surprised to learn a dog’s dental health is as important to overall well-being as a daily game of fetch.

Dental problems in pets go way beyond bad breath. Periodontal disease is the most common health problem in dogs today. At least 80 percent of dogs suffer from it by age 2. Left untreated, dental problems can be very painful and affect the quality of a pet’s life.

Small-breed dogs under 20 pounds are at an even greater risk than larger breeds. First, small dogs have small mouths that crowd the teeth, and second, those teeth are excessively large for those small jaws.

Fortunately, small breeds don’t need to suffer, says Dr. Daniel Carmichael, veterinary dental specialist with the Veterinary Medical Center in West Islip, N.Y. He recommends:

1. See your veterinarian for regular dental checkups. Work with your vet to schedule regular professional dental checkups and ask how you can maintain your pet’s dental health. Monitor for bad breath, which can be a sign of a more serious dental problem.

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2. Brush those canines. Daily tooth brushing is the best way to remove and prevent plaque build- up. You can try the new state-of-the-art Hartz® Dental™ Electric Tooth-brush to make brushing your dog’s teeth easier. It features a vibrating brush head and, when used as directed, is clinically proven to reduce tartar by 85 percent and plaque by 28 percent after three weeks. Use toothpaste made for dogs (beef-flavored paste is appealing to pets) as it’s designed to be swallowed and does not foam up in the mouth.

3. Choose smart snacks for your dog. Chewing rawhide has been proven in clinical studies to help reduce plaque and tartar. Tasty beef and chicken flavors encourage your pooch to chew longer, increasing the dental benefits. Another option is Hartz® Dental™ Nutri-Fresh Chew™ with OdorZap™ crystals to freshen breath, in addition to reducing tartar up to 61 percent.

4. Provide toys with dental benefits. Some newer chew toys have raised tips that help remove plaque and tartar. The Hartz® Dental™ Chew™ ‘n Clean® Deli Cuts are one example and come in three yummy flavors. These toys provide chewing exercise to strengthen gums and help relieve anxiety and boredom.

A Question About Dog Inoculations

“People have warned me that if I have my dog inoculated against distemper or other diseases that I will actually give him these diseases. Is this true?”

All vaccines are made from the bacteria or viruses of the disease, but they are either given in a dead form or so weak that the disease cannot be given to a puppy. What does happen is that in receiving these harmless doses, the puppy builds up an immunity to the disease in question by manufacturing antibodies. Therefore you can quite safely have your puppy protected against disease by having it vaccinated at nine weeks old and by giving it booster doses at intervals of two years or according to your vet’s advice.

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Be sure to have the inoculation given to the puppy in the flank. A lot of dogs have given their first bite when being done in the shoulder. Hold the puppy under your arm so that it can’t even see the vet giving the injection from behind your arm. You should try to get your puppy to be friendly with the vet, so that its pulse doesn’t race with fright when he comes. Inoculations should be given when the puppy is in good health.

Broken Legs are Serious Risks for Italian Greyhounds

We have two Italian Greyhounds (affectionately referred to as IG’s). Dixie was two when we brought Yankee home. I read that IG’s are happier with another animal and thought that another IG would be half as much trouble and twice as much fun. After a few days of establishing a pack order the two became great friends.

For those not familiar with IG’s, they are about ¼ scale of the famous racetrack breed. In their finest form they look half-starved, even though it may look cruel to most pet owners, that’s when they are the most active and truly happiest. A pound or two slows them down tremendously and even becomes dangerous.

They are fearless leapers. No matter how many times I try to explain to them Newton’s Laws of Gravity, it does no good. Heart-stopping stories abound over the internet chat rooms about their Superman like tendencies. The extra weight increases the risk of broken bones.

They are also tremendous jumpers. In her hey-day Dixie could jump straight up over 6 feet high to grab a snack. At will she could jump flat-footed on to the dining room table, landing as soft as a butterfly with sore feet.

But more than anything, those long thin legs were meant for speed. Unfortunately, they can run faster than they can think. IG’s become single focused when running. Twice I have nearly had a heart attack as they ran full speed into each other from opposite directions, tumbling like out of control race cars. Chasing after one another, they’d scrape the trees so close that bark literally flew off and misjudging turns, wiping-out in to brick walls and other immoveable objects was a common occurrence.

Well, one day the inevitable finally happened, Dixie went into a door facing and snapped her left leg. The break was clean through. Her little paw dangling 90 degrees from just below her knee told me everything I didn’t want to know.

I did the best I could to immobilize it as my wife called the vet. As soon as we got there they took her back for x-rays. She was obviously in a lot of pain but had quit yelping after I first picked her up. In fact, she was the calmest of any of us.

My wife was crying because of the dog. I was crying because of the bill. If I would’ve known how much it was going to cost in the lobby I would have cried a lot harder. This was going to be a big payday for the vet.

The choices were simple, they could try a cast, but it would probably not set right because of the very tiny, toothpick-thin fibula. The vet recommended a titanium plate and screws.

The surgery alone would run $1,000. The total bill would actually end up over $1,800. I could have bought 3 Dixies and a lifetime supply of dog food for that much. My wife got mad because she didn’t like my sense of humor, but I wasn’t joking. I know the power of the purse, and I have no intention of getting hit by hers again so I relented.

The next morning they put in the custom made plate and screws. It was really tricky because the screws had to be big enough to hold things together, but small enough not to interrupt blood flow.

More painful (if you can believe that) than the vet bill, was the care and attention Dixie would require for the next 3 to 4 months. For the next three months she would have to be kept in a crate at all times.

For the first three weeks when we took her out to go potty we would have to hold on to her. No walking was allowed. It is absolutely crucial for dogs to find the perfect spot to relieve themselves, not any spot will do. Humans cannot fully appreciate this until they miss an entire showing of Monday Night Football.

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A few weeks after the surgery we got a bit of good news, the leg was healing fine. She would still have to be crated, but we could put her on a real tight lead and let her stand on her three good legs to go potty. In about two to three week intervals after that she was allowed a little more freedom.

Slowly things got back to normal. The first month after she got full clearance to run was rather tiring. Each jump, every full trot run brought held breaths in anticipation of another vet trip.

It has taken two full years to get to where she no longer yelps or pulls up after a full run or sharp turn. She has lost a noticeable amount of her initial burst. She can longer track down Yankee from behind, but they still love to chase each other in the backyard and that gives us great pleasure. If you’ve never seen these gracious runners play at full speed then you cannot fully appreciate why we went to all the trouble and expense.

My wife loves to show Dixie’s scar to anyone who comes by. She talks about the whole adventure like it was The Good Old Days. Out of fear that my wife will read this article I will state that if I had to do it again I would. But I won’t like it.

A Question About Dog Allergies

My puppy has lots of tiny red spots on his tummy and seems forever scratching; the vet says he thinks it is an allergy to something. What does he mean?

An allergy means a sensitivity to something or other; usually a food of some kind. Heat bumps in children are an example. Perhaps your puppy has an allergy to eggs, or fish, or even milk with the cream on it. Perhaps you have bathed it in some kind of medicated shampoo to which its skin is sensitive.

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Only by a process of elimination will you be able to find out what is causing this irritation. In the meantime, just to make sure the vet is right in his diagnosis, It is strongly advisable that you bathe the dog in a good anti-pesticide soap that the druggist can recommend for mange; when you have washed the puppy, dry it with the soap left in. This will make sure the spots you mention are not follicular mange, which has the same symptoms and which the soap will cure.

Bringing Home Your New Puppy

The fun of bringing a new puppy home and introducing him to his new family is a very special experience. He will, of course, become a well-mannered dog, staying quietly at our side, eager to follow our every command. Well, it is a long road from the cuddly puppy to the mature dog, but with some effort and understanding it can be traveled successfully. It all begins with day one in the new home.

The first few days a puppy is in his new home can be trying for both the puppy and the new owner because both are trying to adjust to a new situation. After all, the puppy finds he has been suddenly taken from his den and litter mates and is expected to immediately accept a new, foreign way of life. However, with patience and a sense of humor on the part of the new owner, the first few days can be accomplished with good feelings on both sides.

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Breeders and behaviorists generally agree that seven weeks of age (forty-nine days) is the ideal age for a puppy to go to his new home, with six to eight weeks being the most desirable age range. The six- to eight-week old puppy still needs a lot of rest and will take morning and afternoon naps. For the first day or two, however, he might be very excited and spend much of the day in motion, checking out his new home. As long as he is not hurting himself or anything else in the environment, let him investigate wherever and whatever takes his fancy.

If the puppy is eight weeks old when he first comes home, be very patient with him. This is the fear period and sharp noises or harsh treatment will leave him with fear which may take months to overcome. Let him take his time getting acquainted with everything and do not take him to places where he will be subjected to loud and frightening sounds or activities. If possible, trips to the veterinarian should be arranged either before or after the eighth week.

If the puppy is ten to twelve weeks old when you first bring him home, he will be more rambunctious, especially if he is one of the larger breeds, and he will sleep considerably less during the day. However, he is at an age where you can get his attention quite easily and where he will want to please you and stay close to you.

A Nipping/Biting Puppy And How To Prevent It

If your puppy is younger than 16 weeks and are constantly nipping, it’s normal behavior – young puppies mouth a lot. They mouth when playing; they also mouth to communicate their needs. If your puppy starts mouthing, ask yourself these questions: Is he hungry or thirsty? Does he need to eliminate? Is he sleepy? Does he need to play? Remember, puppies nip when they feel needy (just like a baby cries). If your puppy does not let up, ask yourself if he wants something, like an outing, exercise, or a drink. The following things can help you control mouthing and nipping:

1. If your puppy does not need anything and he still will not quit, crate or isolate him with a favorite bone. Do not scold your puppy as you isolate her. Calmly place the puppy in her area.
2. Whenever your puppy licks you, say “Kisses” and praise her warmly. Encourage licking by slathering your hands with a frozen stick of butter.
3. Withhold your attention when your puppy nips softly. Keep your hand still; withdrawing your hand is an invitation to play and nip harder.
4. If your puppy starts biting down hard, turn quickly, say “Ep, Ep!” and glare into her eyes for two seconds; then go back to your normal routine. If she persists, try spritzing yourself with Bitter Apple or affix a leash onto your puppy so that you can tug the lead sharply to the side. If
necessary, place her in a quiet area to cool off.

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If you have a puppy who still nips when he is older than 16 weeks, you need to start curbing it now. Although nipping will continue, you need to make clear that it is unacceptable. Following are a few tips to help you:

1. Stop all challenge games. These games include wrestling, tug-of-war, chasing your dog around, and teasing. When you engage in these types of activities, you’re sending the wrong message. These games teach dogs to clamp down hard on any object – a leash, the laundry, your shirt, or even your skin – and challenge.
2. Discourage all nipping, whether it’s a bite on your arm or a nibble on your finger. Teeth do not belong on human skin, period.
3. Purchase a few weapons to use in defense, such as Mouth Spray, Bitter Apple spray, or a long-distance squirt gun. Never stare at your pup while you spritz or spray her; doing so turns an unpleasant result into a confrontational interaction.
4. Leave a leash on your puppy so you have something to direct her with and can avoid physical confrontation. If your dog’s not wearing the Teaching Lead, place a short lead onto her buckle collar.
5. If your puppy begins to mouth, turn to him, use a lead or collar to snap her head from your body, or spritz the region he is nipping with a spray. Do not glare at him; otherwise, he will perceive your actions as confrontational play.
6. If he continues to nip, ask yourself these questions: Do I look convincing? Am I snapping or pulling? (Pulling encourages play.) Is my dog taking me seriously? You may need more training before you earn his respect.

Bringing Home An Adult Dog

Bringing home an adult dog is quite different from bringing home a puppy. His adaptation to your way of living will largely depend on his previous treatment and environment. In most cases, firm rules and abundant kindness will win him over. Time is in your favor, so use it! If you expect the dog to adapt in a few days or weeks, change your thinking: It will be six months to a year before he is really yours.

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All dogs should be kept under physical control, that is, fenced or leashed, for that period of time. Unlimited walks will help the adaptation process, especially if you walk in different directions, covering different territories. This helps your bonding with the dog, and the walk back, always leading to his new home, will help him become used to his new “den.”

As with the puppy, the following guidelines should help you in conditioning the new adult dog to become socially acceptable.

Housebreaking

1. Keep the dog tied to you for the first two weeks when he is in the house. Let him loose in your yard to potty or take him on lead to where you want him to potty. Always tell him “Potty” and praise when he does so.
2. Keep a close eye on him during the third week and let him off the leash in the house for short periods of time. Let him out frequently.
3. If you have a Toy breed or Toy mix, or a dog raised and previously kept in a kennel, your time frames should be a month each for Steps 1 and 2.
4. Do not leave the dog alone to roam the house. If you leave, put him in a secured yard or pen, or in a crate in the house.
5. As time goes on, you will be able to tell if he has good intentions of seeking the outdoors to relieve himself. Depending on the dog and his former circumstances, he may be reliable from the first day you bring him home; alternatively, it may take three or four months.

Sleeping Quarters

1. Select the place you wish the dog to sleep.
2. If it is in the house, let him out shortly before you go to bed or take him for a walk.
3. Tie him on a fairly short lead to keep him where you want him to sleep. Give him his own rug and a small bowl of water, or provide a bed or crate for him.
4. If you want him to sleep outside, provide him with a doghouse or a dry, warm corner underneath a porch or a wind-sheltered corner with some type of protected covering. Make sure your yard is secure.

A New Puppy In The House: Welcome Home!

On your puppy’s first day home, give him a complete tour around the house on a loose leash. This is the pup’s first introduction to whatever limitations you want to put on his future access to your possessions – your furniture, golf clubs, books, the kids’ toy shelves, etc.

This is not the right time for “no.” (The puppy might begin to think that “no” is his name!) Instead, use a guttural “Yack!” combined with a very slight tug-and-release of the leash as he sniffs to warn him away from untouchables. He’s new at this, but just saying, “Puppy!” in a happy voice may be enough to get him to look at you – “Good dog.” Back to happy chatter as you move on.

All you are doing is letting him know by means of prevention (a growl sound he understands) what things he will have to avoid in the future. Let him sniff first because he’ll remember the objects more by scent than by sight. He looks up at you and he is praised. Think of it this way: “No!” means “Don’t do that!” whereas “Yack!” means “Don’t even think of doing it!” Chit-chat is natural and pleasurable to both of you; but in the beginning the puppy will only pick up on his name because everyone uses it in connection with things he finds pleasurable – play, food or praise. If you use the word “din-din” many times while fixing his meals, that word will stand out in the midst of a five minute speech on nutrition as a clue to the observant pup that he is about to eat. The human-canine teaching language is based on short, simple words that are consistently applied to specific actions.

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This first guided tour teaches your puppy the layout of his new home, what it looks like, smells like, even feels like (rugs, carpets, tile, wood) and that some things are off limits even to adorable puppies. There is one more important lesson he is learning from this adventure: that you are his new Leader, the He or She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed. If you do not take on this role, the puppy will. Somebody’s got to do it, and he’ll fill the vacancy immediately! You may be familiar with the saying, “Lead, follow or get out of my way.” Every dog is born knowing it and continues to live by it!

Once the house tour is over, now it’s down to specifics. Show Sparky where his water bowl will always be. Let him investigate his crate. Then take him outside (still on leash) to the exact area where you want him to eliminate. Stand there until he does. (Patience. He’s new at this.) Praise quietly as he goes, after which you can make the same kind of tour outside, with warnings about flower or vegetable beds, bushes or plants. Or you may live in a city and by law (and responsible dog ownership) must curb Sparky. Go to the quietest no-parking spot you can find. If you remain on the sidewalk, he will naturally want to join you, so stand down in the street with him. It will take time, plus your casual, confident attitude, to get him used to the noise, the confusion and the speed and size of trucks and taxis. No outside walking tour at this time. Wait until his immunizations are complete, by which time he will also be more accepting of city life.

Note: If the original trip home from where you picked up Sparky took more than an hour, reverse the two “tours” to let the pup eliminate first.

Guide To Briard Breed

History and origin: The Briard has been known since the 12th century and comes from the Brie area of France, where the dog is also known as the “Berger de Brie” or “Chien de Brie.” He was first used to guard herds against wolves and poachers. This breed was bred with good size and a protective weather-proof coat.

Description: The Briard stands 22 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 55 and 90 pounds. He has a large, strong, lanky body and a shedding coat that is long and straight or slightly wavy, with a finer undercoat. The head is well coated, with a beard, long, arched, expressive eyebrows, and cropped or uncropped ears. The eyes are almost covered with hair. This breed requires daily brushing and combing to prevent mats. A shorter clip will reduce the maintenance requirements. The color may be black, gray, or tawny or a combination of two of these colors.

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About the breed: The Briard is a great family pet, a farm worker, a good guard dog, and a successful show dog. He is loyal, easy to train, and has a gentle nature. This active, lively, independent breed is affectionate with his family and reserved with strangers. Alert and territorial, he may be initially resistant to training. A firm, consistent technique combined with early socialization will be needed to reduce pushy, suspicious behavior. Giving this breed a job such as herding, competition obedience, or agility work will help focus his energy and increase his confidence. The Briard may chase cars, bikes, and joggers and may not tolerate the hectic activity of young children, perhaps nipping at them in an effort to herd them. Roughhousing and chasing should not be allowed. This breed can also be dog-aggressive. The Briard may be susceptible to hip dysplasia and eye problems.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Briard is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: The Briard needs a house with a fenced yard. The owner of a Briard should be an active, firm leader, who desires an athletic, lively, intelligent breed. Daily exercise is mandatory; competition obedience or herding would help focus this breed and build his confidence. Sedentary people should avoid this breed. Spoilers and nervous types may encourage a pushy, nippy, timid attitude. Older children who will not roughhouse or play chase games are okay. The elderly and the disabled may have trouble controlling this active breed. The Briard does better in a dry climate; wet environments tend to cause the coat to become smelly and matted.

A Healthy And Happy Lab

Labrador Retrievers can become lazy if they are not encouraged to exercise. Compound this problem with over-feeding, which is very common, and extra pounds are easily put on. Taking them off again is harder work, requiring a more appropriate diet and an effort to increase vigorous exercise time (gradually, of course, to prevent possible muscle injury or overexertion).

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Swimming and retrieving games are natural outlets for Labrador Retrievers. These activities are ones that the breed excels at and enjoys, and they give a complete, full-muscle workout that tones the entire body. Having access to a swimming area may be a problem for most owners, but retrieving games can be played anywhere.

Labradors have great stamina, but owners must use common sense. During the summer months, limit strenuous exercise during the hottest part of the day and provide an ample supply of fresh water. In the winter, a Labrador in good trim should be able to withstand the cold very effectively and should not be kept housebound. If the dog is out in the rain or snow for any length of time, he should be dried off when he returns to the heated indoors.

Breeds of Hypoallergenic Dogs

When looking for a hypoallergenic dog, you will have to decide on a breed of dog and also how the dog will fit into your lifestyle. Many hypoallergenic dogs are small or medium breed dogs. This means that they are small sized or medium sized dogs that require more attention than larger breeds. Hypoallergenic dogs may cause you to have fewer allergy attacks because their hair does not shed, they don’t have an undercoat, or they do not shed a lot dead skin cells, or dander. The following breeds of hypoallergenic dogs are popular with those who suffer from allergies: Irish Water Spaniel, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, and Bedlington Terrier.

For those looking for a hypoallergenic dog that is larger than other breeds, the Irish Water Spaniel may be the dog for you. These dogs have very short human-like hair that will prevent shedding and allergens from entering the air. The coats of these dogs must be maintained through grooming every two months. The Irish Water Spaniel is a friendly dog that likes to exercise and swim during the warmer months of the year.

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is available in four varieties, the Traditional Irish, Heavy Irish, English, and American. The main difference is the size of the dog. The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier has a short coat that does not shed much during the day. The dogs will need to be groomed as often as other hypoallergenic breeds in order to prevent clumping or rashes on their skin.

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is very friendly and will always welcome strangers. They enjoy getting their exercise and want to be around people as much as possible. These dogs should not be kept in an apartment. Having a backyard is a must as this dog loves to run and bark. If you are in need of a hypoallergenic dog that is a little larger than most, then this is a dog worth considering.

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Bedlington Terriers are smaller than the Irish Water Spaniel and Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, but they have short coats which need to be brushed a few times a week to prevent tangling. They will also need to be groomed every three or four months in order to maintain a healthy coat. These dogs are energetic and enjoy exercise. For those who are hypoallergenic and who live in apartment buildings or small homes, this dog is perfect.

These breeds of hypoallergenic dog are not the only ones you have to choose from. There are other varieties that may appeal to your lifestyle and allergy issues. Smaller dogs are better for apartment living as they tend to bark less and require less room to move around in. If you own or rent a home, then you may want to consider a larger breed that will be able to run around in the back yard. Hypoallergenic dogs require more grooming than other breeds because they do not shed most of their hair, it just continues to grow. Not grooming regularly will cause matting, which will have to be cut from the coat in order to prevent skin rashes and other problems.

A Dog’s Growl & What It Means

Growls can stand alone or be used to modify barking sounds to add a degree of threat. Below are 5 different ways a dog may grow and what the dog means by that growl:

1. Soft, low-pitched growling: “Beware!” “Back off!” This is used as a threat and usually causes the listener to move away, giving the dog more space.

2. Low-pitched growl-bark: This is a clear growl that leads to a bark. It means “I’m upset and I’m ready to fight!” This is a clear warning that pressing the dog will lead to aggression.

3. Higher midrange-pitched growl-bark: “I’m worried [or frightened], but I will defend myself.” This is the threat of a less-confident animal who will, however, most likely fight back if pushed.

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4. Undulating growl: This is a growl that goes from low midrange to high midrange with a kind of a semi-bark often added as the pitch rises. It means “I’m terrified. If you come at me, I may fight or I may run.” This is the fearful-aggressive sound of a very unsure dog.

5. Noisy growl, with teeth hidden from view: “This is a good game!” “I’m having fun!” It is usually part of the play sequence and may be tucked in between a series of stutter-barks. It usually indicates intense concentration, as in a tug-of-war or play-acting aggression.

Breeding Golden Retrievers

For beginners, breeding Golden Retrievers is nearly impossible. Breeding can be very complicated, although it can be easy as well. You should never attempt to breed unless you know a lot about requirements for hobby breeders, as it is simply unfair to the breed if you have a litter of puppies that simply aren’t what they should be. People who look to buy Golden Retrievers only want top quality, which is why you shouldn’t attempt to breed just have a puppies or make a few bucks.

Breeding Golden Retrievers is a very serious hobby, one that should be left to those who know how to make the right choices. There is a certain amount of cost and care involved with breeding, especially if breeders are going for a certain quality. There is also a lot of responsibility involved as well, which can take quite a bit of time to say the least.

Motivation for breeding
Breeding can help to fulfill the need of a Golden, although the dog still has no knowledge of it missing, no regrets, or no guilt towards living a life without having been breed. A pregnant Golden Retriever female doesn’t gain anything in regards to health, as it instead causes problems. Golden females that have been spayed on the other hand, cannot be bred. If you have chosen to have your Golden spayed, always remember that she will be unable to breed.

When looking to breed, quality breeders will have a lot of choices in front of them. They will need to determine the pair, such as the mother and the father. To get the highest quality possible from the litter, the breeder will need to determine the traits of both dogs, temperaments, and how well they seem to react to one another. The breeder will also need to determine in either of the dogs have any type of health problems, to prevent any diseases or ailments from being passed on to the litter.

Sometimes, when breeding Golden Retrievers, the mother of the litter will prove to be unfit, which requires more work for the breeder. If the mother isn’t doing her job of nurturing her young, the breeder will need to do it for her. This can be the most time consuming aspect of breeding, as the breeder will have to feed the young and make sure that they turn out as healthy as possible.

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Aside from that, breeders also face quite a bit of costs as well. The prices for daily care, food, and vet bills can be very steep to say the least. When you crunch the numbers, you’ll quickly realize that breeders don’t make much money at all when they sale. Most breeders do it for a hobby, not looking to make money. Quality breeders on the other hand aren’t concerned with money at all, as they are more concerned about the quality of their litters. Quality is better than quantity, as even the best breeders out there have problems selling puppies from time to time.

Although breeding is fun for hobby breeders, it is something you really shouldn’t be doing if you don’t have the experience. Although your Golden may get knocked up by a dog of a different breed without you knowing it, you should do your best to avoid it at all costs if you can. A pure bred Golden Retriever should be bred only with dogs of her breed, to help preserve the breed and keep their bloodline going. If you have thought about breeding in the past – you should really study long and hard before you actually make a reality of it.

Breeding Your Dalmatian

Selecting a female Dalmatian that you plan to breed is very important for proper breeding. You must choose one who you hope will become the foundation of your kennel. This means that she must be of the finest producing bloodlines with an excellent temperament and free of major faults such as deafness. Be cautious if you are offered a “bargain” brood female dog. This is a purchase to where you should not settle for less than the best and the price will be in accordance with the quality.

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Conscientious breeders feel very strongly that the only reason for producing puppies is to improve and uphold the quality and temperament within the breed. It is not because he or she hopes to make a quick cash profit on an average litter, which never seems to work out in the long run and only accomplishes little beyond perhaps adding to the unfortunate number of unwanted dogs.

With conscientious breeders, the only intention for breeding a litter is a desire to improve the quality of dogs in their own kennel. As pet owners the reason for breeding is to add to the number of dogs that they own with a puppy or two from their present favorites.

A Crate And A Bed For Your New Puppy

Your puppy needs a crate. It is his private, personal, snug den where he can sleep, chew a toy and watch the world around him, completely undisturbed. Crates come in two styles: closed (fiberglass) or open (wire). The closed crate is draft-proof, but some puppies as well as their owners want to be able to see more. The open variety offers this visibility, but most dogs like the crate covered, especially while they are sleeping.

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Either type must be placed away from drafts and sources of heat or air conditioning. Regardless of which style you decide on, it is important to get the correct size. Gauge the adult size of your pup and get a crate that will just allow him to stand and lie down. If that size gives him more space than he needs for the next couple of months, use an adjustable barrier that can be moved back as needed.

For large breeds, it may be wiser to have a crate suitable for up to six months of age, and then get the one that will last the dog a lifetime. The best puppy bedding is a folded bath towel, one that is washable or disposable in case of accidents.

A Brief History Of The Dalmatian

Since the mid 18th century, historians have found references to the breed of dog known as the Dalmatian. The breeds’ first established home, for which the breed was also named after was Dalmatia. It is a place in the Western Yugoslavian area which at one time was part of Austria, located on the Adriatic. However, these dogs were well-known throughout many parts of the world long before that time. The breed was shown in various types of antique art including engravings, paintings, models, and early writings which have accounted for the presence of spotted dogs of the same size and type in wide-ranging areas including early Africa, Asia, and Europe. As history tells us, several bands of ancient gypsies (Romanies) were accompanied by the dogs in their wanderings around the world, which explains the vast widespread and popularity of the breed.

The Dalmatian quickly became a favorite and established some of their best known claims to fame in Great Britain. They were brought there by members of the British upper classes who in those days often made tours to Europe and would often come back accompanied by some of the striking spotted dogs. Right after they were adopted by the English aristocracy who used them to accompany their horse-drawn carriages, the charming dog soon became a feature of these processions. The dogs were taught to station themselves beneath the rear axle of the coach, and in some cases to trot underneath the pole separating the horses. They were also taught to lead the procession, trotting along ahead of the first horse, which was an impressive sight to see!

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Another type of activity with which the Dalmatian became known for, which also said to have started in Great Britain, is his very famous role of being a “firehouse dog.” This was said to have started with the dogs being used as ratters, for the function of killing vermin in London’s stables and firehouses, which they did with expertise. But these dogs loved the horses and the fire engine, so it was almost inevitable that they soon were racing ahead of them through the streets whenever the alarm was sounded. In the present days, many Dalmatians can still be seen riding on the fire trucks with their masters. Dalmatians are still considered as the mascot and are often found in firehouses, not only in Great Britain but in the United States and other countries as well.

In addition to being a “firehouse dog,” Dalmatians have also worked in war times; done sentinel duty; served as shepherd’s dogs; and as draft dogs. They have been seen in many circus shows, especially enjoying popularity with the clowns as “assistants,” their intelligence, aptitude, and showy appearance having fitted them particularly well for this activity.

Breeder Ethics For Both Stud Owners & Female Dog Owners

Although courtesy is not a requirement of dog breeding, ethical, caring breeders become more successful as their reputation spreads. These are some suggestions for female dog owners who are seeking to work with a stud dog owner:

1. Call on the first day of season and make an appointment. Even though your female dog might not cooperate immediately, the stud owner will have a general idea of timing.
2. Have the vet culture your dog and check for stricture, abnormalities, and season status.
3. Inform the stud owner about any idiosyncrasies of the female’s personality or her cycle.
4. Exchange pedigrees.
5. When shipping the female, call to let the other party know she has embarked or landed safely.
6. Present your female in good health, with no parasites, and immaculately clean.
7. Pay the stud fee promptly.
8. If your female must stay at the stud’s longer than the average three days, offer to pay board expenses.
9. Notify the stud owner that your dog is in whelp and when the due date is. That is not only courteous, but smart. He may have some interested buyers.
10. Notify the stud owner when your dog whelps, and give statistics on the litter: number, sex, color, any abnormalities. Also, inform of a miss.
11. Don’t blame the stud or, conversely, take all the credit for everything. It takes two to triumph or to flop, as the case may be.
12. Don’t blame the stud for the size of the litter or the sexes. The sex split is a matter of luck and timing. Litter size is often hereditary.

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Now here are some suggestions for stud owners:

1. Refuse any female dog that is unsound or of very poor quality. Your stud will receive at least fifty percent of the blame for the results.
2. The same rules on shipping – as stated above – hold true.
3. The same rules above on health and cleanliness also hold true.
4. When the female is in your care, she is your responsibility. You must provide good food, attention, security, and medical treatment if necessary.
5. An unproven male often stands at stud for a smaller fee than the going rate, or for no fee until the female shows in whelp.
6. Two breedings forty-eight hours apart should be offered when a male is used rarely, to obtain mature sperm. Since ovulation is so iffy and hard to predict, especially with a maiden, two breedings are often given if the male’s calendar allows.
7. Although the burden of proof is on the female, most stud owners give a return in case of a miss.
8. If the breeding is not perfect, rest the dog and try again in a couple of hours, and/or offer another breeding in two days.
9. If a breeding cannot be obtained, discuss alternative choices with the female dog’s owner.
10. Not at all necessary, but extremely generous, is a return breeding for no fee or a reduced fee in case of a smaller litter or one that does not survive the nursery.
11. If a puppy has been contracted in lieu of a stud fee, decide what happens in advance, if there is only one pup – or none.

10 Most Important Tips To Training Your Puppies

All of us dream of parenting the perfect dog, a pup that is a CGC or canine good citizen and is well behaved and dependable at all times. Well dreams do come true if the training is done with care and dedication. Remember pups learn from day one and need to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization.

Pups are like children, they need constant supervision and training. Training a pup need not be an ordeal all you need to keep in mind are a few simple rules:

• Until your pup learns you need to keep an eye on him at all times. When you cannot then you must crate him. Create a schedule for the pup this will help the pup settle down quickly. The schedule must include things like hourly bath rooming visits, eating times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A pup that has a busy day has no time to be bored and get into mischief.

• Teach the pup to respect you. Dogs live in packs and instinctively follow a leader. If you establish your leadership in no uncertain terms then training will become easy as the pup will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority.

• Use only positive training methods. Never shout at, hit, or punish a dog. It is not just cruel but can lead to behavioral problems. Use of electric shocks, prong collars, sprays, and so on could hurt the animal.

• Teach the pup “nothing in life is free.” This is a system that is widely acknowledged as a useful training tool. If you practice this, the pup will learn that to get something like love, a walk, or treat, he must behave well.

• Teach the meaning of “No,” from day one. Do not encourage behaviors like jumping, mouthing, tug-o-war, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good behavior and ignore or walk away when there is bad behavior. The pup will learn that if he misbehaves he will loose his companion/playmate.

• To correct a behavior you must catch the pup in the act and startle him by rattling a can of pebbles. Once you have done this make him correct his behavior and immediately offer him a treat and praise. Pups do not recall what happened earlier so scolding him after an event is of no use.

• Always call/use his name positively. Never say “Bad TOM,” or “No Tom,” this will cause confusion and the pup will think that if you call his name then it is something bad. The pup must associate his name with happy events like hugs, petting, walks, treats, and such. If this happens he will come willingly when you call out his name.

• Create a training schedule that is short and sweet say 10 minutes thrice a day. Long repetitive lessons can be boring and the pup will loose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use trick training to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on.

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• Bond with the pup and both of you will enjoy your lessons. The pup must look forward to spending time with you and not avoid you by running away or hiding. Be sure to socialize the pup early. Socialization is one of the most important lessons. The pup must learn to be around other animals, people, sounds, vehicles, and other activities. So, slowly introduce the pup when he is little to everyday activities and sounds. Take him to the mall/ park, introduce him to children and other pets, and make him unafraid of the vacuum and garden hose.

• Learn all about crate training, leash walking, house breaking, as well as food training. These are kindergarten lessons that every pup must master. Know about all the idiosyncrasies as well as peculiarities of the breed this will give you valuable insights on how to successfully train the pup.

As a pet-parent you have many choices. You could choose to train the dog yourself or register at a professional training school. Training a dog has many stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, showing and conformation, as well as other aspects like therapy dogs, hearing dogs, and so on. What level you choose to train depends on you as well as the learning abilities of your dog. As you know, different dogs like humans have varied talents. Choose well and both you and your pup will have fun times together.

Some Facts On The Breed Temperament Of Terrier Dogs

From the funny little pals to the more aggressive ones, terrier dogs definitely have wide spectrum of temperaments and dispositions that anyone would find interesting. In fact, any kind of owner would fit with the various characteristics that this breed can show. Beware though for some can be very mischievous while others can display timidity.

Terriers are primarily bred to help hunters in catching vermin, otter, foxes, rats and the likes. Newer breeds though tend to be so domesticated that they are now included in the companion and toy breeds.

As with many other dog breeds, terrier dogs have diverse characteristics that set one type from another. A number of owners find them as faithful in their families and are always ready to protect the home to which he has accustomed himself with. Distinguished excellent guardians, many dogs from this breed can easily determine well-intentioned strangers from those who mean harm.

This instinct to protect probably rooted from the earlier breeds which were originally used in bloody dog fights. Since the banning of this sport, many breeders resulted to producing more docile dogs for homes. Through innumerable cross-breedings, keen and protective terriers were produced.

Some notable terriers of this disposition are American Stafforshire Terrier or AmStaff, Airedale Terrier and Bedlington Terrier.

One of the major features terrier dogs have is their capability to respond well to training. In fact, some types are endowed with natural intelligence which makes them fit for obedience training and ring shows. Some terriers with this disposition need lots of activities that would challenge them mentally. Those included in this type must be given enough training so as to refrain them from being destructive out of boredom. Unlike larger breeds though with much intelligence, most terrier dogs will not make as much damage.

Some of this type also has the determination and dignified disposition that give them the air of confidence.

Some terrier dogs are fun loving and humorous in some sense. They are lively, frolic and gay which provide entertainment for their families and has become the favorites for many centuries.

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Social terriers meanwhile should be given enough social environment so as to ready them as they mature. Most terriers with this disposition tend to dominate other dogs when they have come to their ideal age to assume authority. The bull terrier types could best display this temperament.

Surprisingly, some of the smallest terriers are among the toughest. Take the case of Cairn dogs. For their relatively small size and the stocky built, they still portray the disposition of being always ready when the need for activity arrives.

Many types of this breed though still retain the true terrier disposition. That is, hunting. Yet, significant with such dogs are their keenness to human companionship which make them both good ratters and affectionate pets.

Others still have the power, speed and endurance that many of their ancestors possessed. While some may be repressed due to domestication, many of them can manifest whenever the drives arise.

This breed is quite old. In fact, many of them had been existing since time immemorial. It’s not surprising that they have various characters that an owner can either detest or love.

10 Dog Barking Moments & What Your Dog Is Trying To Say

1. Continuous rapid barking, midrange pitch: “Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!” Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: “The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!”

2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, midrange pitch: “I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it.”

3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: “Is there anybody there? I’m lonely and need companionship.” This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.

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4. One or two sharp short barks, midrange pitch: “Hello there!” This is the most typical greeting sound.

5. Single sharp short bark, lower midrange pitch: “Stop that!” This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.

6. Single sharp short bark, higher midrange: “What’s this?” or “Huh?” This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to “Come look at this!” alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean “Come here!” Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed midrange means “Terrific!” or some other similar expletive, such as “Oh, great!” My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.

7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: “Ouch!” This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.

8. Series of yelps: “I’m hurting!” “I’m really scared” This is in response to severe fear and pain.

9. Stutter-bark, midrange pitch: If a dog’s bark were spelled “ruff,” the stutter-bark would be spelled “ar-ruff.” It means “Let’s play!” and is used to initiate playing behavior.

10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you’ve heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch – almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as “This is fun!”

Breed Success In Your Puppy Search

The numbers will make any pet lover blanch with disgust, anger, and sadness. The Humane Society of the United States calculates that as many as 500,000 puppies every year are sold in pet shops, and that many of these pet shops buy their pets from the worst breeders—so-called puppy mills. What do these puppy mills (and kitty mills) have to do with you if you’re on the market for a new furry companion? You know what you’re doing when it comes to buying a purebred, right?

Truth be told, puppy mills are largely responsible for even harsher statistic: as many as 25 percent of all purebred pups suffer from genetic difficulties because of bad breeding. And as knowledgeable as you think you are about buying a dog, you could come across one of these poor pups and not even know it.

That could mean that you spent hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on a pet, only to have it succumb to a birth defect and maybe even die at an early age. Even if this worst-case scenario doesn’t occur, buying from the wrong breeder can also land you an animal that picked up diseases because of the intolerable conditions at the breeder. That could lead to additional thousands spent on vet bills.

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Why leash yourself to such heartache? There’s no need when there are so many great and trustworthy breeders out there, who can pair you with a loving new puppy.

To find the right breeder for you, start local. Your best bet is to find breeders within driving distance. That way, you can visit the actual breeding facilities. And while there, be sure to scout out for the following characteristics that all best-of-show breeders possess:

• A litter of dogs that play, smile, and show all the other signs of being happy and healthy. Take notice, too, that the pups are sociable to the breeder, you, and their brothers and sisters.

• More demand for their dogs than they can handle. Usually a long buyers’ waiting list at a breeder is like a wagging tail on a puppy—a good sign.

• A discerning eye for customers. Good breeders should ask you as many questions as you ask them, on topics such as your reasons for wanting their dog, your past pet experience, whether you have enough space at home, and who in your family will be responsible for daily puppy care.

• The willingness to show you the puppy’s parents during your visit if you provide the right answers to the above questions.

• A wealth of knowledge on the dogs that they breed, including specific advice on the breed’s standard and temperament, to satisfy all of your questions and concerns.

• A health guarantee in writing that shows exactly what vaccinations the pup has had.

• The friendly advice about what future vaccinations you should give, along with the best ways to train and care for the puppy.

• A guarantee, again in writing, this one stating that the breeder would be willing to take back the dog if you cannot keep it at any time.

• The care and thoughtfulness to keep in touch for some time after your purchase, to check on the dog and offer further advice when needed.

If you keep your eyes peeled and your ears perked for these signs of a good breeder, you won’t have to rely on luck or a good reference in finding the right puppy (though those don’t hurt either). You’ll learn soon after you bring your new pal home that you made the right choice, and over time, your family and pet bond. Your pet will live a long, healthy life as part of your family.

8 Tips For Traveling With Your Dog

Just because you have a dog doesn’t mean you have to stay home all the time. If you plan ahead and take a little care, it is easy and fun to travel with your dog.

Here are some tips to make the trip easier on both you and your pet:

1. Get your dog used to riding in the car by taking him on short trips. Go to fun places like the dog park, the fast food drive through (where you can feed him bits of meat from your burger), or to visit friends. You want him to think that trips in the car are fun. You don’t want your dog to think that all car trips end up at the vet’s office.

2. If your dog tends to get carsick, don’t feed him the morning of the trip. Having your dog travel with an empty stomach will help to prevent any car sickness.

3. Bring plenty of water and a water dish along. You will need to give your dog periodic drinks of water when you stop for a rest. It will be easier to get your dog to drink if it is familiar water from home. Water in different places often smells or tastes differently, and your dog may not want to drink it.

4. Be sure to pack your dog’s food, treats, favorite bed, toys, and leash.

5. If your dog uses a crate, bring that along too. If you don’t have a large vehicle, you can buy crates that fold up. When you get to your destination, you can put your dog in his crate while you go somewhere that you can’t bring him along.

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6. How should your dog travel in the car? Some dogs like to sit or lay on the seat, so bring a blanket to protect the upholstery. Other dogs may need to be kept in a crate in the car. Be sure the crate can’t slide around and scare the dog while you’re driving. You can also purchase dog seat belts to keep your dog safe while sitting in the car.

7. Make a stop every few hours to walk your dog and give him some water. Some dogs are frightened by the noisy trucks driving by, so try to walk in a quiet area. Be a good citizen and bring plastic bags along to pick up the mess.

8. If your dog is anxious about staying in a hotel or strange house at your destination, he might not eat or drink. You don’t want him to get dehydrated, so be sure to get him to drink, at least. You can mix chicken broth or gravy into the dog’s water. That will usually get him to lap it right up. You can mix chicken broth or gravy into the food too.

The first trip will be the hardest, because your dog will not realize that you are coming back. With the first trip behind you, if you have taken the time to make sure it is pleasant for your dog, future traveling with your dog should be a breeze.

Breed Clubs: What Are They and Should You Join?

Breed clubs are national or regional organizations dedicated to specific breeds of dogs. They exist as a repository of knowledge that both the novice and experienced breeder can access. Even if you aren’t a dog breeder, you can benefit from the knowledge that a breed club has to offer. If you are in the market for a particular breed of dog, the members of a breed club can give you insight into the nature of the dog and help you decide if that breed is the right one for you and your family. Investigate the different breed clubs and if one doesn’t feel right, move on to the next.

What to Expect from a Breed Club

A breed club exists to support both the breed of dog to which it is dedicated and the club’s members. The members of a breed club see something special in their chosen breed and want to preserve those qualities that make it unique. Therefore, these like minded individuals band together to set a standard for the breed and to educate and assist other interested dog owners. They also exist to make sure that further generations of the breed adhere to the club’s standards.

Breed clubs also serve as a support system for those who want to show their dogs at national competitions. They can provide information on handling your own dog at shows or lead you to a professional handler that can do the job instead. Participating in dog shows means working with national dog associations, and the breed club can serve as an advocate for the breed in these circumstances as well.

In addition to expecting support from a breed club, the member can also expect that the organization itself will be well-run and that important decisions will always be made with the health, welfare and betterment of the breed in mind. Anyone who wants to join should feel welcome as long as they uphold the ideals of the breed club.

A good breed club will also facilitate interaction among its members and hold activities throughout the year where members can share information about the breed and just enjoy getting together with others who share their interests. The activities should include both the members that show their dogs and those that do not.

See: training collar guide

What a Breed Club Expects from Its Members

The membership of any breed club has a right to expect certain things from its individual members. For example, every breed club has instituted certain ethical standards in regard to breeding methods and every member must promise to uphold them. Indeed, membership in the most reputable breed clubs almost guarantees the potential dog owner that a specific dog breeder is of the highest quality and that the dog he or she is purchasing was bred according to club standards. The reputation of the breed club is on the line, so any breach of these ethical standards by its membership is taken very seriously. Often, the unethical breeder will either be suspended or barred from the club completely.

A breed club also expects that when you join them, you agree with their philosophies and goals concerning the particular breed and will help them further these ideals by educating others about the breed’s unique nature and special qualities. As a member of a breed club, you will always be expected to act with the best interest of the breed in mind.

Breed Rescue Groups

Just about every breed club is either affiliated with or sponsors a breed rescue organization. These rescue groups are terrific, no matter what breed they focus on. When a purebred dog (suspected or proven) of a particular breed is found in a shelter or on the street, members of the group work to either return the dog to its owner or find it a suitable home with new owners who have experience with and a love for the breed. Rescue groups also foster dogs whose owners can’t continue to care for them. The dog remains in a loving atmosphere until a permanent home is found. So dedicated to the breed are these rescue groups, that members will drive across the country to ensure that the dog is placed in an appropriate home. Many of these cross-country trips are done relay-style, where the dog is transferred from car to car until he reaches his final destination.

8 Items That Every Dog Owner Must Know When Going To The Vet

1. Your veterinarian is one of the most important people in your dog’s life. You should choose your veterinarian just as you select your own doctor, by reputation and quality of service. You and your dog should feel at ease with this professional. You need to feel that you can trust your veterinarian, especially in an emergency situation.

2. Be sure that you have stated your own goals and your intentions with your dog so that your veterinarian can know what you are expecting. Your dog’s health depends on your being able to work together with your vet.

3. When you have a puppy, you will be visiting your vet many times during the first year. After that, establish a routine by visiting every six months for fecal and physical examinations and once a year for a complete work up, including blood tests. Use this as a preventative measure. Dog’s cannot tell you where it hurts or if they are not feeling very well. Preventative medicine can put years on your dog’s life.

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4. When having blood work done, make sure that your dog has fasted at least 12 hours before the test.

5. Blood work and urinalysis need to be handled very carefully. In some of the tests, there is a time factor involved.

6. Some differences in clinical chemistries exist between breeds. German Shepherd Dogs, for example, tend to be lower than other breeds in glucose, LDH, alkaline phosphatase, BUN, and uric acid. Their amylase and transaminase may be higher. Phosphorus and SGPT were found to be higher in Beagles and Labrador Retrievers.

7. Your best guide is the comparison of your own dog’s test results. Establish what is normal and be sure that the tests are run always using the same laboratory.

8. If you have made the decision to change your dog’s diet from commercial dog food to a natural diet, have blood drawn before you change. You should have a CBC, a chemistry screen or profile and also a fecal analysis done. One month after putting your dog on the new diet, have the same tests run. This will give you a basis for comparison. Changing to a natural diet often puts a dog who had health problems back into balance.

Breaking Your Pit Bull Terrier’s Jumping Habit: Dog Training Help

As you have probably already learned, Pit Bulls are highly energetic animals. They love to run and play, and get excited easily. One of the more annoying habits they develop at a young age is jumping. Jumping can be particularly annoying when they do it as a way of greeting, especially if it is young child or someone who is afraid of dogs. Teaching your Pit Bull to curb this behavior is not an easy task, but is your responsibility as a Pit Bull owner.

Many people have stopped their Pit Bulls from jumping on them by using treats. When they come inside, they throw some treats on the floor, and then greet their dog while his attention is fixed on the treats. The treats usually work as a good distraction to pull your Pit Bull’s attention away from jumping on you. If you don’t like using treats to train your Pit Bull, or if the method just doesn’t work well for you, then you have to try other ideas to train your Pit Bull not to jump.

One thing you can try is teaching your Pit Bull that it is nicer to sit than jump. Go outside, leaving your Pit Bull inside, then come back in and calmly greet him. If your Pit Bull starts to jump on you, turn your back to him, and ignore him. When your Pit Bull puts all four feet back on the floor, turn back around and pet him. If he starts to jump on you again, turn back around and ignore him. This will teach your Pit Bull that when he jumps, he doesn’t get any attention, but that if he sits nicely you will pet him. This technique may take quite a while for your Pit Bull to learn, especially if he is a very excitable dog. But, if you stick with it long enough, he should learn that jumping is not going to gain him anything other than losing your attention. Once you get your Pit Bull thru this step, try to teach him to sit still for a few moments before you acknowledge him. If he gets up, use the same routine of ignoring him, and then when he sits down, pet him again. This would also be a good time to try to teach him to shake hands when he greets people, rather than jumping on them.

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You can also further entice your Pit Bull to not jump by tempting him and then rewarding and praising him for his good behavior. Hold treats up in the air so that your Pit Bull will have to jump to get them. If he jumps, ignore him, and when he is calm try again. When he is able to remain seated, praise him, give him the treats, and some extra attention. He will soon learn that by behaving the way you want him to, he will not only get extra attention, but some extra treats as well, which is double incentive for him to obey.

Another method that tends to work well in teaching your Pit Bull not to jump is to have a designated place for your Pit Bull, and teach him to go there when you need him to, for example, when someone is at the door. To start this training, you will need to pick the spot, and put maybe a bed or blanket and some of his favorite toys there. When the spot is ready, spend some time with him while he is there. Giving him special attention and treats will help him attribute the spot as a good place that he wants to spend time at. As your Pit Bull becomes accustomed to his place, start sending him there occasionally. At first, you will want to be close to the spot, and eventually move farther and farther away from it as your dog learns. Make it a point to give him special attention and treats each time he goes to his spot when you ask him to. Eventually, your Pit Bull will learn that by going to his spot when you ask him to, that you will reward him for it.

The biggest thing you can do to help your Pit Bull learn not to jump is to keep your own greetings calm. I know it is hard when you have been away from him all day not to come in and play and wrestle with him, but this will only get him more excited, and he will expect this same attention from everyone that enters the house. Until you can completely break the jumping habit, it may be best to ignore him for the first few minutes you come home, and then play with him once he settles down. It may take a little time, but your Pit Bull will soon learn how to tone down his excitement.

8 Guidelines For Feeding Your Adult Dalmatian

Here are some feeding guidelines researches have learned over the years and recommend for adult Dalmatians:

1. Never feed a Dalmatian organ meats such as liver, kidney, sweetbreads or brains in any form, whether cooked, raw or as an ingredient in a pet food or
snack.

2. Never feed a Dalmatian game meat such as venison or elk in any form, cooked, whether raw or as an ingredient in a pet food or snack.

3. Never feed a Dalmatian red meat, cooked or raw, or as an ingredient in a snack or in a pet food where it appears as one of the first three ingredients listed on the label.

4. Never feed poultry cooked or raw, or as an ingredient in a snack or in a pet food where it appears as one of the first two ingredients listed on the label.

5. Feed them plenty of fruits, vegetables and grains as snacks, except those known to be high in purine yields such as mushrooms, asparagus, legumes, oatmeal, spinach and cauliflower.

6. Feed adult Dalmatians dog foods such as corn, wheat and rice, (in that order) whose protein and fat content are moderate: about 22% protein from low purine
sources and no more than 10% fat.

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7. Fresh, clean water must be available at all times.

8. Divide the dog’s total daily ration into two meals so that blood levels of uric acid will remain fairly stable. Soak meals in warm water to improve water
consumption.

Dalmatians are only one of about 140 recognized AKC breeds. Because they have different dietary requirements than all the other breeds, it is understandable that the ingredients in most premium pet foods are not aimed specifically at keeping Dalmatians fit. What new Dalmatian owners do not know is that pet food representatives do such a good job at marketing their products to various pet food outlets, that the store salespeople often become excited for certain brands, which may very well be outstanding overall but are quite harmful to a Dalmatian.

If a meat product is listed as the first or second ingredient in an adult dog food, it is more likely that the food is less suitable for Dalmatians than others that list grains, especially corn, as main ingredients.

Boxer Dogs: Ten Things You May Not Know About Them

Legend says when God was fashioning different breeds of dog out of clay, he came to his final task and decided to create the most beautiful dog ever and call it a ‘Boxer’. But this new breed of dog was vain and rushed to see himself in the mirror before the clay was properly set and bumped headlong into his own reflection. That accounts for the flat nose characteristic of the Boxer, and also proves that God really did accomplish his design for the world’s most beautiful dog! Here are another ten things you may not already know about Boxer dogs …..

The Boxer Dog Who Cheated Death and Became a Television Star Instead
In 1985, a white boxer dog called Bomber was snatched from a vet’s surgery by an animal nurse and later appeared in the UK television series, Oliver Twist. It appears the dog’s previous owners, Tony and Elaine Chapell, decided to put the dog to sleep when they learned he didn’t quite fit new Kennel Club standards for his breed! In filming he was made to look flea bitten, dirty and covered in sores. Bomber even had a dressing room all to himself and was congratulated on giving a superb performance. Well done Bomber, and shame on those who gave up on him!

A Boxer Dog With His Own Fan Club
A boxer dog called George was used in media advertisements in the early 1990s and became so well known that he eventually had a fan club all to himself. George’s strange expressions appeared in ads. for Coleman’s Mustard and eventually the dog became a household name and even made guest appearances at public functions and schools.

The Boxer Dog With The Longest T-o-n-g-u-e!
A boxer dog called Brandy featured on Ripley’s Believe It Or Not due to her incredible 17 inch long tongue! Brandy, from Michigan, USA, was bought from a local breeder in 1995 and her new owner was assured the dog would eventually grow into her l-o-n-g t-o-n-g-u-e! She didn’t and on television she was shown performing antics such as eating from a bowl 13 inches away. Her owner, John Scheid, says brandy likes sunbathing and even gets tan lines on her tongue, but says the beautiful boxer is fit, happy and healthy, so her unique feature isn’t a problem at all. She even has her own web site at: www.tungdog.com

Zoe, The Boxer Dog Who Came Back to Life!
Zoe’s owner, Cathy Walker, from Manuden, near Bishop’s Stortford in the UK, has been told by a medium that she is surrounded by all the pets she has lost. That certainly seems true of Zoe, a tan and white boxer bitch who died several years ago, aged eleven. The Daily Mail (November 6th 2001) printed an amazing photograph of the bark of a tree under which Zoe spent her last day, showing what can only be described as the image of a boxer dog in the bark. Cathy tells how she is a great believer in life after death and claims the image of Zoe has strengthened that belief.

The White Boxer Dog Who Received Hate Mail
To anyone who loves dogs in general, and Boxer dogs in particular, Solo was as beautiful as any other of her breed. To her owner, Joyce Lang, she was more than just beautiful, she was a constant friend, a much loved family member. But not everyone thought the same way and, surprisingly, in 1982, in Burgess Hill in the UK, an anonymous letter arrived addressed to Solo, saying: “I think you are the ugliest dog I have ever seen.” What sort of human could write such nonsense is beyond most people’s comprehension, and probably the letter was intended mainly to upset Joyce, an objective the hateful writer most definitely achieved. Letters continued to come saying: “Why don’t you get your master or mistress to take you for a face lift?”. One even contained a paper bag which the sender said should be placed over Solo’s head! When local newspapers heard the story the headlines proclaimed that beauty is always in the eye of the beholder and in Joyce’s and other dog lover’s eyes, Solo was beautiful.

A Little Boy’s Tribute to His Pet Boxer, Lance
This story appeared in The Faithful Friend (Writings About Owning and Loving Pets) and concerned dog owners in the United States who often loaned their pets to the military in World War Two. Lance, a Boxer, worked with Dogs for Defence which eventually became the noted K09 Corps, and belonged to a family with young children, one a boy who wrote this letter to Dogs for Defence: ‘My Boxer, Lance, was in the army since last June. I have not heard anything about him since I received a certificate from the Quartermaster General. The number on it was 11281. I love Lance very much and want to know if he is doing anything brave. Can you please tell me where he is and what kind of a job he does? Please answer soon because I can’t wait much longer to know what has become of him’.

Origins of the Boxer Dog
What we know about the origins of most breeds, including the Boxer, is largely owed to early sculptures, painting and drawings. In the Boxer’s case, a carving of a dog looking much like a boxer can be seen on a tomb in Arnstadt where lies Elizabeth of Hohenstein who died in 1368. Flemish tapestries from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries show dogs resembling the Boxer engaged in stag- and boar-hunting.

German Origins
Boxer dogs became very popular in Munich where the breed is thought to have originated. But the history of the breed has not been without controversy. In fact the first Boxer Club in the UK was closed because of disagreements over almost everything pertaining to Boxers. By 1905, however, the most enthusiastic followers of the German Boxer met to develop a standard for the Boxer which would be accepted by all. The Munich Boxer Club drew up the standard which exists largely unchanged even today.

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Boxer Dogs in America
The first Boxer dog in America was imported in 1903 from Switzerland. The new owner of the dog was New York Chief Justice of the Court of Appeals, Irving Lehman who imported many other Boxer dogs. The first Boxer dog registered with the American Kennel Club was in 1904. The dog was Arnulf Grandenz, bred in America by James Welch of Illinois.

Boxer Dogs in Warring Nations
The boxer dog gained rapid popularity soon after the Second World War ended, ironically more prominently in countries formerly opposed in war with the Boxer’s most likely native home, Germany. Listen to what Rowland Johns says in Our Friend The Boxer: ‘The re-emergence of the Boxer breed has added proof that warring nations do not carry their antagonisms for long into the relations between them and other nations’ dogs. Both with the Alsatian and the Boxer their popularity derives directly from the contacts made during a state of war. In those two wars the adoption of both breeds by members of the British forces provided some personal satisfaction and uplift of the spirit in long periods of exile from home, family, and friends.’

7 Tips to Naming Your Puppy

You’ve picked out the perfect puppy. You spent hours on the internet, researching the right breed for you and your family. Then you went from breeder to breeder or humane society to humane society, meeting and greeting pups until you find just the right match.

Now what? He needs a name!

Over the course of its life, you will use your dog’s name more than 35,000 times. So be sure you’re picking a name you can live with and love.

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With these seven simple steps, the key to finding the perfect puppy name is at your fingertips!

  • Dogs understand short commands. Easy names with two or fewer syllables work well.
  • Your puppy’s name shouldn’t sound like any commands. “Stacy” and “stay” are too close for comfort. Such a name will only confuse the issue.
  • Remember, you’ll be using your pup’s name in public. “Stinky” may be cute among your fellow fraternity members, but it won’t go over well at the veterinarian.
  • Make your kids part of the decision process. Kids like it simple, too, so if calling your Champion Cavalier King Spaniel “Bootsie” works for them, consider keeping the hoity toity name strictly for AKC purposes.
  • You may think it’s an honor to name your pup after you’re favorite Uncle Norbert. Naming your baby after him may keep you in the will, but naming your puppy after him may not.
  • If you’re bringing home an older dog, ideally, stick with the name it already owns. Can’t stand it because “Barney” was the first boy who broke your heart? Then stick with similar sounds when choosing a new dog name. “Barney” morphs into “Farley” easily.
  • Once you’ve chosen a name, try it out for a day or so. You’ll know right away whether it’s a keeper. If not, there’s always more puppy names on your list!

Take a look around you. Everywhere you are, you’ll find a variety of terrific ideas on what to name your pooch.

At first glance, a couple things will stand out about your new puppy. Enjoy him or her for a day or two and take these into consideration.

  • Appearance. What’s your dog look like? His color, size, and personal style inspires a variety of name choices. “Stubbs” would be a great name for a dachshund pup. Or you may call a cream colored cock-a-poo “Buffy.”
  • Personality. Given a couple of days, your new dog’s personality will really shine through. Try “Cuddles” for the sweet little guy who loves to get cozy or “Puddles” for the pooch who can’t seem to find the doggie door.

If you want to go beyond the basics, many famous dog names or foreign dog names can fit the bill. Consider these favorite puppy names when making your decision.

  • Celebrity puppy names. Today, pooches have more celebrity following than their famous owners. Chew on “Lola,” a name used by both Hilary Duff and the Osbournes.
  • TV dogs. “Scooby” and “Astro” come to mind if you want to honor a famous TV pup.
  • Movie dogs. Cool movies and cool dog names seem to go hand in hand. Cool Hand Luke’s “Blue” would be a fitting label for a variety of dogs.
  • Comic dogs. “Snoopy” will always be a favorite, but also consider “Daisy” or “Odie.”
  • German dog names. For starters, try out “Fritz” or “Kaiser.”
  • Irish dog names. “Finn” fits well for any pup, as does “Murphy,” which just happens to mean “hound of the sea.”
  • French puppy names. “Pierre” and “Gigi” are top contenders for any dog, especially those with a little oo-la-la in their genes.

The choices are endless. However, with these simple tips and some thought, before long, you’ll have found the perfect puppy name!

Boxer Dog Training

The Boxer is an amazing dog and is extremely playful, energetic and definitely a handful (in a good way of course). This breed if dog is extremely loyal and when a friendship is built it lasts forever. The boxer is unique and not for everyone, if you are a new owner of a boxer you have to be aware that they need a lot of attention and training. They are extremely intelligent dogs, which can work to your advantage when it comes to training, but then again can be very disadvantageous, as they know how to use their intelligence to get what they want.

Boxer dog training consists of training them up to become guard dogs; this is their main profession if you like. People who do not know boxers tend to assume that they are naturally aggressive when they are in fact the opposite and could not be more playful than any other dog! Because of their good stature and aggressive look, people are automatically assuming this dog could do more harm than good. If your boxer is not trained properly then he just might.

Because of their intelligence, Boxers can be very stubborn but when it comes to training a boxer, it can be very helpful. Owners must remember that there will be times when you ask him to do something and he’s going to look you in the face and basically tell you where to go, he knows he is supposed to do what you are telling him but he decides he can’t be bothered and doesn’t. The main thing you have to remember in these circumstances is to be patient. From as early as 6 weeks old you should start your boxer dog training as this will help him when he grows up, socialize him, play with him and teach him, but do it in an exciting way and he is more likely to listen.

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The main aspect of training for a boxer is socialization. Boxers can be very friendly dogs but they need to be trained to become one. They need to get accustomed to other dogs and people. The best way to do this is training classes. That way your boxer will be trained alongside other dogs.

When your boxer reaches 13-16 weeks old it’s time for some serious boxer dog training, this is the stage where he is going to test for dominance, he will nip and try to show you that he is the more dominant one, mainly by not listening to you. You have to be a strong leader at this time; you must show him that bad behaviors will not be tolerated no matter what!

Boxers are genuinely a lovable family dog and would make a proud pet for anyone, they are dogs that prefer to sit on you lap for a cuddle than anything else. Train your boxer early with some serious boxer dog training and you can be assured you will have a stunning, loyal family friend!

7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog

With so many different kinds of dog shampoos on the market today, it is not easy to decide which one to use. For most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. But if you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might consider a specialty shampoo.

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• Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier.

• Accentuate your dog’s coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black, or red coats.

• For sensitive eyes, consider a tearless shampoo.

• For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog’s coat.

• Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing.

• If your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog’s problem. Your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog.

• For flea season, consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil.

Guide To Boxer Breed

History and origin: This breed can be traced to the old holding dogs of Mollossus or Mastiff types. Perfected in Germany during the 19th century, the Boxer was developed by crossing Mastiff, Bulldog, and terrier bloodlines and was once used for fighting and bull baiting. Similar to the Bulldog, his jaw is undershot, a trait common in bull-baiters. Today’s Boxers do not have the fierce temperament of the earlier dogs.

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Description: The Boxer stands 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder and weighs 55 to 75 pounds. Strong and thickly muscled, he has a short muzzle, a docked tail, and cropped or uncropped ears. The shedding coat is short, stiff, somewhat prickly to the touch, and of very low maintenance, requiring only an occasional brushing. His color may be brindle with white or fawn with white.

About the breed: The Boxer is a brave, loyal, clownish dog who loves children and makes a good guard dog. He is a friendly, headstrong, high-energy breed that is very affectionate but easily distracted. A busy, curious breed, the Boxer needs firm, precise obedience training from an early age in order to contain his boundless energy, but the training should not be overbearing or rushed. He can be suspicious of strangers and, in some cases, may be dog- or people-aggressive, especially the male. Daily exercise is important. This dog makes an excellent jogging partner and agility dog. The Boxer is normally good with children, but care must be taken that this strong breed does not knock down and hurt a child. Roughhousing, wrestling, and chasing should not be allowed. He is a powerful, exuberant dog who tends to wag his whole body when pleased. The Boxer has little cushioning on his body and needs a blanket or bed to lie on. He has no body fat and therefore gets cold easily and does not do well in cold climates. He is also prone to respiratory problems, is a horrendous snorer and sneezer, and can be flatulent. This breed is susceptible to heart problems and bloat and normally lives only ten to twelve years.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Boxer is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a branded meaty product with biscuit added in same amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry food.

Ideal home: A house with a fenced yard is important. The owner of a Boxer should be an active, strong, competent leader who has the time and patience to work, socialize, and exercise this energetic, often stubborn breed. Children are okay provided no roughhousing occurs. Persons who are very easygoing or slow-moving should avoid this breed, as should those who are nervous, cautious, or overbearing. The elderly and the disabled may have a hard time controlling this breed and may create a dominant dog that lacks confidence.